Mark’s Notes On The Go

I’m SO TIRED. My feet ache like I can’t believe. I just stopped at a Boots and paid an exorbitant (when changed to dollars) amount for some arch supports before my feet just die. When I walk at home, I do about 2 miles in half an hour. Supposing I’m coming close to that walking speed at least part of the time… what maybe 6 to 8 miles a day?? It’s hard to factor in the time when I’m standing still in front of an exhibit.

I think I was a little underwhelmed with Edinburgh Castle. It might have helped if I’d had a live guide, but when I got there, the sign indicated the next one was at 12:45, so I went about on my own, came back about 15 after 12pm figuring on stopping in the gift shop for a bit… sign now said next tour at 1:30pm… uhm… huh? No one to ask and I had seen about half the castle on my own now. So, I went back and toured the rest on my own. I went to see the Honours of Scotland. I don’t think I have ever encountered such rude-pushy tourists. The rooms are laid out with very little elbow room. If I stood back, the steady stream kept me from reading the commentary. If I stood forward, I got battered by everyone. Hello, why are you coming to see something if you don’t even vaguely stop on your way through? I found myself getting very agitated. The Honours themselves were awesome - just hated no photography. Meant to find a postcard, but by the time I was done, I was done. I did buy a couple of souvenirs but I hadn’t even thought of that part anymore.

I went down the Royal mile and did a little more souvenir shopping before coming back towards the hostel. I’m going to grab something to eat (3:30pm and I haven’t eaten since 10am). I figure then back to the hostel to prop my feet up and read for awhile.

By and large doing well. My feet are about walked off. I can’t imagine how many miles a day I’ve walked. I know I won’t be walking for the rest of the week when I get back. I don’t think today will involve quite as much walking since I’m not taking a train anywhere (walking to/from train station), but I am going to see Edinburgh castle and more of actual Edinburgh today, so who knows.

Of course, tonight is the big New Year’s celebration. Keep your fingers crossed for good weather! Last year’s was cancelled as a result of bad weather. Apparently that was the first time since they’d started having an organized celebration.

Yesterday, I took the train to Stirling. It’s nearly an hour away but well worth it. I could totally envision just spending a few days there. So much to see and the city is quite accessible. Within a few blocks of the train station, there was a touristy district that was packed with places to eat and an actual mall. I did walk through the mall just to see how it compared to back home. I was most struck that there was not a real food court, but the Princes Street mall here has a food court, so maybe it depends on the whim of the people who design them.
Walked straight away up to Stirling Castle. And I do mean up in every sense of the word. That was a heck of a hike. Any invading army would have been winded by the time they got there. Like Edinburgh Castle, it’s built on the remains of an extinct volcano. The castle is, of course, beautiful. It was actually in use by the military into the 1960’s, but Historic Scotland has been working to restore the place. What they have done is amazing. I managed to get there about an hour before a guided tour, so I walked around for a bit and saw some on my own and then came back for the tour.

I noticed one thing during the tour - I have a harder time with the Scottish accent than British. I can understand as long as I concentrate, but if my attention wanders at all, I’m probably lost for the rest of the sentence, so I lost track during some parts of the tour, especially if I took my camera out to take a picture of something he was talking about.

I read before I came here that you could see all four seasons in a day here. I believe it now. I haven’t seen Summer yet (I hope), but I came close yesterday. I was cold when I left in the morning. By the time I got to the Castle, it shortly started to rain.. got colder.. sleet… occasional flurries… then it stopped for a bit and there was a rainbow (tried to get a picture - I hope it shows up well!). The sun came out for a few minutes, and then a persistent drizzle started that pretty much continued the rest of the day.

After the castle, I walked down to check our Argyll’s Lodings, also owned by Historic Scotland so covered by the Explorer pass I purchased. I might not have gone otherwise, but it was quite a place. It’s considered a “townhouse” by 17th century standards. While my townhouse might have more modern amenities, it’s by no stretch as impressive as this townhouse was. I think I may have seen some early Scottish thrift upstairs, though, in the grand dining room. They painted the panelled walls and columns on plain flat walls! Did a grand job of it, mind you, complete with shadows and all, but probably cheaper than all of the carpentry work.

I had wanted to go see the Wallace Monument. I got a couple of good pictures of it from the Castle, but I was talking to the guide at Argyll’s Lodging and the place closes at 4pm this time of the year. She suggested getting a bus if I wanted to make it. It was a little past 2:30pm at this point. She couldn’t suggest a particular bus number as so many apparently go in that direction… So, I went down to town centre again. I asked three bus drivers if they went that way. The first two were a bit on the rude side and just said no. The third driver was kind enough to tell me that a bus number that would be by in about two minutes went that way. I looked at my watch after he left… almost 3pm… I don’t know how long it would take to get there, but I decided I didn’t need to see it so bad as to have limited time there. I know that even the bus doesn’t drop you off there, that you still have to walk up the hill to it. So, I decided that will be another trip someday.

I left the bus stop and found lunch at a Subway (yes, I am in an American rut food wise). The funny thing was I asked for a meal deal that was on the menu over their heads… stunned silence… “what” - so I pointed at it… uhm… has no one ever ordered a value meal here before… Strange! She still didn’t seem to get it. So, I ordered the individual components in the value meal… Rang up to the right price anyway… Afterwards, went across the street and found a bakery. Wanted something sweet for the train ride back. I forgot the name of what I had, but it was kind of a short-bread cookie with jam in the middle and the top was iced. This is how the lady behind the counter described it when the dumb American asked what it was. I may have forgotten the name, but it was scrumptious!

The train ride back was quiet. I pulled out my MP3 player the first time since I’ve been here and listened to some music and nodded off some of the way. The train terminates in Edinburgh, so I didn’t have to worry on that front.

When I got back, I did a little souvenir shopping and then went on a “Ghost and Ghouls” tour of the vaults beneath the old bridges in Edinburgh. Apparently, the city long ago built these bridges and the city more or less built up around them until you can’t even really tell the bridges are there in most places. When the bridges were built, some of the barrell vaults had rooms in them. Mostly used for storage, but some were used for pubs and such. Apparently some poor may have lived there at one point. It was very near a slum in that period that was overcrowded. Supposed to be one of the most haunted sites in Britain. I had heard of them already and planned to take a tour, but I also saw a spot on them on the Travel Channel not too long ago. It was quite fun. The tour guide was excellent. He did some general macabre stories of old Edinburgh. In one, he used two people from the group as demonstration victims to show how Edinburgh used to torture people guilt of crimes (circa 1600s). I was one of the victims who was chosen from the group Victim #1 (me) was flogged and then had both ears cut off and ear drums punctured… nice… Victim #2 (another guy) had the same flogging but his mouth cut and his tongue exploded… (the way they did that is kind of hard to explain - kind of a torniquet situation). I now know the original meaning of “grinning ear to ear” - I may never use that term again. I’m not sure which of us got off lighter.

Afterwards, wandered over to the “Night Afore International” - this year’s them is France. So, it had a certain Cirque De Soleil (sp?) feeling to it. At one end a band was playing. I listened to a couple of their songs and then was distracted by the street performers. First they had these large animals that were elephantesuqe but kind of fantasy based - the faces were very like puppets. I only got a couple of pictures because my battery was running down. Afterwards, I saw this big musical display with these people on stilts dressed all in white. Their outfits expanded (by fans and air) into these giant bubble headed beings with glowing heads. They danced around these other giant balls and eventually they lighted up and flew. Another giant balloon that was blimp like had a person strapped to the bottom who circled the crowd flapping these wings and throwing out confetti. I’ve done a woeful job of describing this but I did not piece together all the meaning. I think the giant glowing heads gave birth to the two glowing balls but I’m not sure what the blimp-deal was. It was still fun to watch.

At this point, my feet were protesting and I was a good bit damp and decided to call the day quits.

Another morning in Edinburgh. Back in McD’s. Up too early to take advantage of the breakfast provided by the hostel. Haven’t eaten here yet either, so this will probably be short.

I had a good time yesterday. Rode the train up to Dunfermline, which is the ancient capital of the Scots. Really picturesque place but also a moderate sized city where people live and work. Would have enjoyed more time there as I barely saw more than the central town and the Abbey/Palace. I was limited by being on foot and that I needed to get back to Edinburgh in time to get everything done before the torchlight procession. I didn’t have time to do too much willy-nilly wandering.

I virtually had the Abbey & Palace to myself. Could have something to do with it being winter-time and the off-and-on drizzle. I got there near noon and no one was there. Three groups came in behind me. All were disappointed that they could not see the tomb of Robert De Bruce, but I knew that in advance. The tomb is in the church which is still in use and only open to the public during the summer. Many of the ancient kings and queens are also buried there, but the locations are no longer known. Roughly, they believe the old church (which I did get to go in) was built on top of the original church where they were buried. So, I probably trod across their graves. The Abbey & Palace are basically ruins, but it was a lot of fun.

Got back into Edinburgh about 4pm and got my ticket for the torchlight procession and then ran to a Pizza Hut that was right there near where the procession started. I hadn’t eaten anything but a candy bar since Breakfast. I inhaled that pizza. In retrospect, not a good idea. Toward the end of the procession, my stomach was really upset. I don’t know if the pizza was bad or if it was a combo of not eating all day, then eating really greasy food and about 1 hour later walking for two miles or what…

The procession itself was beautiful. I was in the second band of people who walked. The first group had drummers leading them. Our group had a jazz band leading us - I was right alongside them. It had a definite carnivale feel to it. There are a few things they should warn you about - don’t wear clothes for which you have a deep affection. The torches are basically a long cardboard tube soaked in wax with a wooden base and a cardboard ring to protect your hand. Well now, if you held it perfectly upright and there was no wind, all the wax ran down to the cardboard ring. If the wind blew or someone tipped their torch a little, wax went all over. The wind blew… a lot… After I got to the top of the hill to watch them burn the viking ship, my torch finally went out and I began chipping off wax from my coat and gloves. I had a cap (of course the one I liked the best of my hoods) that I think will never come clean. It was still beautiful up there. They burned a viking ship (that the guys dressed as vikings had paraded with ahead of us) and then they launched fireworks - really impressive display. View of the city stretched out below.
And about the end, my stomach really told me how unhappy it was. I found a grocer on the walk back and managed to find some sort of stomach medicine - sounded like bi-carbonate or something like that. Two doses (the recommendation) didn’t do the trick (or I was impatient) but the third did. I also grabbed a coke and the nearest thing to saltines I could find.

After I got back to the hostel, I washed my coat, gloves, and hat. I went ahead and tossed in some jeans as long as I was at it. The jacket seems to have come clean. There’s still wax on the gloves - maybe more will come out in subsequent wash? When I went down to the dryer the next to last time last night, the hat and jeans were still damp, so I left them and carried the rest up. Went back down about half an hour later (had gotten to talking to some of my room-mates from Australia). Jeans were folded up on a table… no hat… opened the dryer, jam packed with wet clothes… It was midnight and I just didn’t care enough considering the shape of it after the wash (not encouraged about the wax coming out). So, I didn’t feel like hunting through someone else’s wash. I may check down there later and see if someone left it on the table afterwards or anything. Maybe… Or I’ll just find a Scottish replacement!

Sincerely hope it doesn’t sound like I’m having a bad time. I am really having a great time. And I am looking forward to more of it - even if my feet aren’t!

So, that gets me to this morning. Planning to head over to Stirling and see the Castle. The Britrail pass has come in really handy. I like the freedom it’s provided. I got a Historic Scotland Explorer pass yesterday at Dunfermline Abbey. Any three of the next five days, I can go into like 80 sites managed by Historic Scotland. I did the math on the places that I was going that were included and I came out ahead getting the explorer pass. Still have to see Edinburgh Castle and hopefully Craigmiller Castle (which is also in Greater Edinburgh). Also hope to see Mary King’s Close, an attraction here in the city, a “close” which was covered over hundreds of years ago, so basically a time capsule of what the city was like years ago that was reopened recently.

My flight arrived on time yesterday. Both times I’ve flown BA, in flight they’ve said that we would get to London half an hour early. Both times, we’ve missed and been on time. Don’t tease me like that! This time, the only sleep I got was while we were circling the airport, so I guess I shouldn’t complain. I guess I’m just not meant to sleep on airplanes. I could never get comfortable. Last time the person behind me kept jabbing me with her knees feet or something. This time, the woman in front of me moved so constantly and with such force that the seat kept hitting me in the knees. I finally gave up and watched most of the latest Harry Potter movie. I also felt quite sick before landing. I don’t know if it was some sort of bizarre case of nerves or something I ate in flight, but I was having cold sweats and felt nauseous. It passed shortly after I was on my feet again.

When I landed, we had an enormous wait getting through passport control. Apparently, there’s some sort of New Year’s Day parade in London. I saw tons of kids and parents there. The kids (ranging from high school to college) had on various T-shirts indicating they were in the parade - I guess bands??

Once that was finally over, made my way to the train station at Gatwick and got my Britrail pass validated. The guy behind the counter asked where I was going, which was good as I needed advice about which trains to take. When he heard where I was going, he commented on how insanely busy the trains coming this way were and said, “Going to Edinburgh today, brave lad!”

The first train to King’s Cross allowed me to see much of the graffiti covered London that I had not previously seen. So did the Walk from the Thameslink station to Kings Cross/St. Pancras. But I lucked up at the station. Their computers were down. They could not reserve seats on the train, which meant all you had to do was buy a ticket (or have a pass) like me and sit down. It caused trouble all the rest of the way as people further up the line THOUGHT they had reservations. I’m positive that there were a lot of disgruntled folks.

I got here earlier than I expected - a little after 3pm. That was great! I slept over two hours on the train which was even better! I only saw a little of the scenery as I slept so much of the train ride, but what I saw was up here and beautiful. I saw the North sea from the train! As cold as it is, that may be as close as I come.

London wasn’t nearly as cold as up here. I heard several comment on it yesterday when we were getting off the train here. Naturally, while I was hunting for my hostel it rained. I had dinner and wandered up and down the Royal mile for awhile afterwards before going on a “City of the Dead” tour that is supposed to be a tour of the site of an actual poltergeist in Greyfriars churchyard. It was fun, but nothing happened to me. I felt cold (but it was COLD) and the hairs on my body stood up (did I mention it was cold?). On the way there, several of us slipped on ice (one fell, not me). I found lots more slick places on my way back to the hostel.

Anyway, I had intended to find somewhere to send out a broadcast e-mail last night, but I was so exhausted that I fell into bed after the tour. I slept a lot later than I intended, but I’m sure I needed it. I was still the first up in the room I’m in. I don’t know if I was truly the first one up, but the lights were off in the Men’s showers. I had it to myself and was not complaining. I just had breakfast here at McD’s - which conveniently has an internet cafe. I’ll have to remember this as the days pass by.

So, I’m about to head out again today. Am intending to head down to the train station and take a train to Dunfermline. I want to see the Abby and Palace there. I guess I’m seeing Edinburgh out of order as I’ve only seen the castle here from outside at night, but I’ve got days to see what’s here. The trains will be disrupted for the holiday weekend making it harder to get out to some places, so I need to do those trips now. I think tomorrow will be Stirling. But nothing is in stone yet.

Today was a subdued Christmas.

My Mom has a little tribe of outdoor kittens. Their momma had them here last Spring and left after awhile. Most of the kittens remained behind plus we had a couple of others show up (perhaps helped by someone over the fence into our back yard). A few of them will come in if the weather is bad, but by and large, they have remained outside cats.

This morning, one of them, Tiger, was missing. My Mom was the first to find him… He had been run over sometime between Christmas Eve and Christmas morning. Before we exchanged gifts this morning, my Dad was outside doing the burial thing. Mom was distraught, having been the one who retrieved him from the road. She wrapped him in a couple of her good towels which he was buried with.

Tonight, it’s alternating between rain and sleet. There’s a chance of freezing rain later tonight. We’ll keep our fingers crossed that it doesn’t get cold enough. While I like snow since it’s so rare, there’s no place in my heart for freezing rain which typically brings nothing but downed power lines and falling pines. Two of the kittens, Philbin and Dickens, came in to get out of the mess.

In the evening, my folks and I sat down together to watch the first movie on a set of Ma & Pa Kettle DVD’s that I got them. The first movie in the series is really not about Ma & Pa Kettle, but it was their first appearance as supporting characters. My folks remembered the series from later. None of us had seen the original movie, The Egg & I, starring Fred MacMurray and Claudette Colbert. It was actually pretty good, kind of an early Green Acres, but with a lot of the typical plot lines I’ve seen in 1940’s era movies, newlywed couple faces adversity, splits, and then comes back together at the last minute realizing that they are meant for each other. The adversity in this film was that the husband, MacMurray, wanted to be a Chicken farmer. Apparently, even though one barely sees the Kettle family in this movie, they were interesting enough to warrant an additional seven movies to follow.

Despite everything it was a nice Christmas with the family. I’ve got a pile of DVD’s to watch and more reading material (some of which will go on my trip with me). I also got a few odds and ends for the trip and, of course not a surprise, Britrail tickets for use during my time in the UK. And I think the folks liked the gifts we all exchanged. My dad is still playing with the combo fax/copier/scanner/printer we got for him, and my Mom spent hours looking through her little Lulu trade paperback and wishing that she had some veggies, etc. to use to test her new mandoline.

One more day here with the folks, and then it’s back to Atlanta to drop off my car and stuff. Kelly is coming by to pick me up and drop me at the airport. I would have totally taken a drop at a MARTA station, but she indicated she’d rather drop me at the airport. When I get back, I’ll be calling April to pick me up at the Northsprings MARTA. I get back close to the end of the work day. Just in time for rush hour traffic probably - not much I can do but apologize for that one!