Mark’s Notes On The Go

Today was my first full day back in the states. Incredibly tired. I guess a combination of being on the go every day for a week and jet lag. Going the other way was not nearly so tiring, I know.

As I said in an e-mail I sent out to an assortment of people from the airport, leaving was bittersweet. I was tired. I was ready to get home and relax, but every trip to London uncovers more things that I would like to do when I’m there. And each time the desire to travel more returns stronger. One day I’ll figure out how to make desire and life converge.

Yesterday, I got to the airport with plenty of time to spare, which may be why I got frisked by security not once, but twice. I got a longer than normal drill at the ticket counter about the contents of my bags. Could have something to do with the 60 pounds I had on my back maybe? I was amused that I was carting this all over my back across London with relatively little trouble (last time it was more of a hassle). Yet, when I got to Atlanta, they had put a big orange label on my checked backpack that read heavy. So, I check the big bag and zip off the daypack to take on the plane with me. I get frisked on the way through security. No one in front of me frisked, but this is beginning to become the norm for me. Okay, sure, go ahead. Usually ends there. However, when I get to my gate, you have to go through a second ring of security for international flights - same as before. But this time, they searched my bag and frisked me - AGAIN. So yes, I must look like an international terrorist. Who knew!

While in the airport, I checked e-mail and had sort of a brunch. I had not eaten much in the hostel for breakfast and what lunch would be like on the plane was questionable. So, I grabbed a sandwich, crisps, and a coke at Boots. After eating, I wandered into the duty-free bookstore and got a copy of Long Way Round: Chasing Shadows Across The World. Now, I not only had reading material, I probably would have eventually been able to get this at home, but in the spirit of returning from a trip, it seemed right to read about someone else’s travels.

As little TV as I watch these days, Long Way Round was a show I watched last year on Bravo. It features friends and fellow actors, Ewan McGregor and Charley Boorman. Ewan came up with the unconventional idea of riding motorcycles from London to New York, almost entirelyl on land. There are a couple of points, obviously, that no land crossing exists. It was a six part series that I tuned in for each week. And I will probably get the DVD whenever it’s available.

As good as the show was, I could not put this book down. Even though I napped for a bit to try to help adjust to the time change, I completed the book before landing in Atlanta. While the idea of crossing the world on the back of a motorcycle itself doesn’t interest me as much, the journey itself was the important part. The show was their method of financing the dream, and the process of getting that to come together is covered in the book. I’m not sure how many of us comparative nobodys could hope to accomplish the same thing in the same way, but I guess it goes to show that if you want it bad enough, you can make it happen.

I especially empathized with Ewan’s initial mistrust of the motives of strangers. He blamed it on life in London, but I would go so far as to say that in most first world countries, we learn to question the motives of kindness. We always think that some sort of string, if not worse, is attached.

At any rate, I’m too tired for a full-fledged review of the book. It’s great - I totally recommend picking it up and being prepared to read it all in one or two sittings. If you have the vaguest sense of wanderlust you’ll enjoy it. If you like bikes, you’ll enjoy it. If you enjoy reading about other people and places, you’ll enjoy it. If you like all of the above, then you’ll completely adore it.

The flight was long, and it had the obligatory young and obnoxiously noisy children, seated stratetically close to me. I was glad I had something to read, but sorry that I had packed my ear plugs in the checked bag. When we landed, it still took another hour and a half to get through customs and get out of the airport. I picked up my car and headed south. I got home a little after 9pm last night. Very little of the drive was in the dark. I love Daylight savings time in the summer!

I intended to get some stuff done today, oil change for one, but the flesh is not willing. I’m using today to decompress. My eyes are heavy. More sleep is necessary, but it’s a delicate balancing act trying to also work my way back to eastern time!

Wow, basically two days to catch up on! I never found time yesterday to sit with a computer.

I woke up on the late side, but in plenty of time for yesterday’s plans. I wanted to go try the British Museum again - this time with one of London Walk’s tours. I have a MUCH better appreciation of what I saw this time. I still haven’t seen a tenth of what is there, but I had a better time. And there are things I saw last time and enjoyed that weren’t on this tour, so all in all much better trip.

Afterwards, I did some shopping. I went to Forbidden Planet, the large Cult TV/comic/etc. shop that I found last time - it’s walking distance from the British Museum. Got a few things there and had fun looking at everything they had to offer. Only a few things that I felt bad that I couldn’t afford (expensive to begin with nevermind factoring in the exchange rate). Well, I guess if I’d really wanted them THAT bad, I’d have gotten, but I guess I can sometime control the impulse to spend.

I walked on and did some shopping in Covent Garden before heading down to Piccadilly Circus and up Regents Street. Before I knew it, I was outside Hamley’s, which is THE toy store in London, hundreds of years old and massive. I had been once before but was tired and didn’t make much of it. I appreciated it more this time. I didn’t realize how truly large it is, They number the floors oddly by our standards. In addition to the “Ground Floor,” there are floors 1 through 5 and a basement, so by my reckoning, that’s seven floors. I ended up getting a toy set for Red Dwarf (a British Sci Fi comedy some may recall from PBS in the states).

The funny thing was I got stuck in a massive line, or queue, by British terminology. I’d been holding my tongue, trying not to be rude, but there were these two children in front of me going riot all over. Their mother just stood by the register waiting for them, i.e. she had them in line but she was just waiting at the end of it, far away from their antics. I’d managed not to say anything despite my nerves wearing thin, and just as I was so close to the front, this woman who had already purchased stuff, I could tell by the bags, saunters straight in front of me and the rest of the line. Huh?? Suddenly, I heard myself say, “Excuse me??” She looked kind of surprised. I pointed to the rear of the long line and said, “The line forms back there…” She looked embarrassed and headed to the back - the other customers looked at me approvingly at least, so I guess I didn’t cause an incident.

Afterwards, I continued my shopping dawdle around town. I made my way up to Oxford Circus and came back through Carnaby Street (which I’d heard of but didn’t know why - think designer/edgy clothing - interesting to gawk as I went through but decidedly not my scene).

All this walking took HOURS. I barely used the tube at all yesterday and think I’ve pretty much done in my shoes. Well, I was probably not long off from replacing them, but they have certainly see a lot of wear here. But each trip I put together where things are more and more and figure out that, as I’d read and been told, the Tube is not always the best or even fastest way between two points once you learn the lay of the streets, which are sometimes about as confusing as Atlanta.

I wandered through Trafalgar to take some pictures since the past two days were so beautiful. And I was thrilled to see the fountains up and running!! My first day here, they were drained dry and under maintenance. It looked for sure that my tradition of throwing coins into the fountain each trip was over. But there they were yesterday full of water and all! So, I got some pictures and tossed in my coins - a tradition continued!

Afterwards, walked down to Embankment Tube station. There was a ghosts of london’s west end walk leaving there last night. I had grabbed a sandwich, crisps and a coke from a Tesco’s (grocery) and intended to have it there while I waited for the tour to start. I had my choice of sitting on steps next to a guy going through the trash or a pile of Danish teens… hmmm… hard choice… I chose the Danish teens… Who weren’t really all that bad, a little noisy but otherwise well behaved. Turns out their parents were with them and they were all going on a private London Walks tour - in fact the same one I was going on but with their own guide (you can hire them out like that). Interestingly, I only understood two words they said, one was “internet” - the other was “fu__” - well, you sort out the rest.

The walk itself was probably among the best walks I’ve taken. The ghost stories were quite fun and the guide was just full of London tidbits. He’s been leading tours for 31 years and has done radio and voice work. A lot of his tour was around the theatrical parts of London because he knew so many people in that area. Quite enjoyed it. Was tempted to go on the other tour he leads tonight, but it ends after 9pm, and I so need to get in and pack and all tonight. Early start in the morning. Flight isn’t until 1pm, but I just always want to get an early start to head off the chances of being late.

That was pretty much the end of my day yesterday. I walked back through St. James Park (wonderful views at night over the lake) and then through Green Park to catch a tube back to the Hostel. Read a few short stories from the Hellboy books I’ve had languishing. Yeh, really smart I thought as I turned out the lights to be reading horror at night in a strange place.

Today, I got up fairly early and it was a wet ugly morning. The antithesis of the past few days. Where it had been cool, it was kind of warm (comparatively) but with blowing rain. I made my way to Tower Hill Tube station, quite a trek - all on one train but with stations every little piece, it took like 45 minutes. I had decided to grab breakfast near the station, but it’s been forever since I’ve been at that station. Not really much particularly early in the morning. I walked around and finally found a place to grab a ham and cheese croissant. I’d by this point almost decided not to go on the trip to Greenwich. The weather was so nasty and I just didn’t want to deal with it. Finally I decided that I was still on vacation and should take the chance and go. Was a fair sized crowd who must have agreed.

We took a boat ride down to Greenwich. The boat ride was fun - the blowing rain almost made it feel at sea. The captain cut off the taped descriptions of what we were seeing and started telling us. Altogether much better. Apparently the tour company doesn’t agree according to our guide. I couldn’t agree with her more that they are wrong. His description having worked those docks back in the day was great.

At Greenwich, the tour took us around and showed us all the sights. She was quite something in her own right, outspoken school teacher - I don’t guess I’d have any idea about what those are like (wait my family is full of them). She had a lot to say about historic conservation, politics, etc. She was definitely up there in the ranks of the guides I’ve had here. She showed us the key things and suggested what she would see, what was there to see, etc. Gave us history about the places we were seeing. It was a lot to absorb but fun. Afterwards, she set us loose. I wandered through Greenwich market and picked up a few things and also had “lunch” - a choco covered doughnut (yes, yes, I know bad).

Proceeded on up to the Royal Observatory, where, yes, I did the cheesey stand over the prime meridian thing. Right foot to the east of the prime meridian and left foot to the west. I took a picture of both feet. Along the line, they have different cities and their distance from the meridian. No Atlanta, so you know there was nothing remotely close to where I call home. Toured the observatory on my own and then just as I was wrapping up, they announced a guided tour was leaving shortly… hmmm… I thought about a second round through. I do like to hear it from someone knowledgeable, but then I decided that I didn’t really care to know more anyway (lousy attitude I guess).

I went to see the “Painted Hall” which is part of a complex that once belonged to the Royal Navy (built by the Royals of course on the site of an old palace). It was designed by Wren. I forget the name of the painter, but WOW! I hope the pictures came out, because it was just fantastic. Some of it was scenese. Others were just faux treatments - columns that I had to get right up to to realize they weren’t really as they appeared. It was also where Lord Admiral Nelson’s body lay in state after the Battle of Trafalgar. So, a good deal of history.

Following that, I went on a tour of the Cutty Sark, the last of the Tea Clippers. It was built in the 1860’s. The guide suggested it was worth a tour as it’s about to be massively refit if they can raise all the money they need to conserve it. The iron in it is all rusting. So, it will close in a year or so and when it reopens, much of the original will likely be gone. It was quite something to imagine what life aboard those would have been like. They used to sail around the tip of Africa on this thing before the Suez canal opened. After that, it was used to go to Australia for wool. Cramped spaces. My head touched the ceilings in places (living quarters no less).

Then took a walk under the Thames. They have a tunnel that connects to the otherside where you can catch a train back to the city. Or you could walk apiece and take a train from that side, but the guide who brought us in recommended it. The guide mentioned that depending on the tides, the tunnel built in 1902, is between 30 and 60 feet underwater. I thought nothing about it until I was walking through tunnesl with water dripping off the ceilings and walls. Didn’t seem entirely safe to me, but I’m here now, so I guess it’s not about to spring a leak today.

Afterwards, got off the Tube at St. James park. Wanted to see it in the daylight. Quite pretty. Watched some ducks by the lake for awhile and even a quite forwards squirrel who must have been used to people as he climbed up a fence begging me and some others for food.
Walked from there over by Buckingham. Had it in mind that I wanted to see the front of St. James Palace. The guide last night pointed out the rear to us. I made it around just as two police on bikes pulled up and told the one guard at the front gate something and then both police officers on bikes parked at either end of the street… Figured something was up, so I wandered down to the far end where I could see some sort of gate by the side of St. James Palace. Looking at the map, this would appear to go by the side of Clarence House. A few moments later, a police car came out and stopped traffic and then two black cars came out with flashing lights and the motor cops escorted them out… No idea. I did see someone wave to me and a couple of others standing by like me, but I’m not sure who it was. Maybe a royal? I guess, but I have no way of knowing. I took a picture but it’s really just of the cars because I was still trying to figure out what I had seen. I know the Queen is still in Canada right?

Anyway, that’s pretty much all. Now I’ve just had a proper (American) dinner and will shortly head back to the hostel and pack up. If I’ve some time, I’ll likely read awhile as I did last night. I may still be solo in my room. Who knows. It’s the last night. What are the odds of having a six bunk room to oneself this long? I wonder if I’ve been forgotten sometimes!

So, back to the states tomorrow and straight home from the airport to see my folks for a few days. I shall hopefully have time to catch up on some e-mail at last!

posted by Mark @ 8:04:00 PM 0 comments
Sunday, May 22, 2005

Very long day. Well, I slept late at least, but I haven’t stopped moving since. It was nearly 9am when I got up. That’s not my norm on Sunday mornings, but then I normally have a large AJC waiting on me to read and I haven’t been operating 5 hours outside my normal time.

Once I got up and got out, I got on the Tube and headed to “Little Venice” - which is named after Robert Browning, the poet, who lived in the area and had lived in Venice before. It’s an area where a few of the inland canals meet. Beautiful area, of course, and expensive. Got there JUST in time for the first boat out at 10:30am. The boat ride is around 45 minutes. The guide told a lot about how the canals used to operate when they were used to deliver goods - before the 1920’s when motorized transportation really took over and the canals were nearly lost. Now, they are pretty much just for entertainment but at least preserved.

The end of the ride (unless you chose a round trip) is Camden Town. There’s a HUGE market there on Sundays. I managed to find myself a few things as well as the odd gift. Camden Town… wow… if you know Atlanta, think Little Five Points but multiply it by at least five. It was just more than you could take in at once. More different foods than I would imagine sampling in a life time. I ended up setting on Mexican… which was both my breakfast and lunch. I shared a table (full house) with a mother and daughter from Canada. Compared notes on where they’d been, where I’d been, etc. They wanted to got to Stonehenge. I told them you should be able to do the train/bus deal yourself but I’d done a tour. I pointed out London Walks was going there Tuesday. They said they might try that route! Anyway, after that, I wandered around for a good few hours checking out all the stalls and stores and what-not. And it just kept getting more crowded!

Afterwards, I’d planned to take the tube from there, but little did I know that on Sunday afternoon’s the crowds are so large, they close the Camden Town tube to EXIT only. You have to walk to (or take the bus if you can figure out the routes) another station and go from there. I decided to walk the “12 minutes” to Kentish Town station because it was on the same northerly line I needed to be on next… wow, I think it was more than 12 minutes, it sure felt like it. When I got on, I rode up a few stops to Archway Tube, which is where I’d read to go to get to Highgate Cemetery. Well, I forgot to bring the directions with me. But most times you get off the tube and there’s a tourist site nearby there are signs… not so here… I wandered and wandered. I knew I had to be in the right area because the name Highgate was on everything but not so much as one sign. Now, as I had given up and was just going to call it a wash, I happened to see a London Walks tour wrapping up. I knew there was one in Highgate this afternoon but had chosen to skip it to spend time in Camden Town. I also knew the walk ends near Highgate! I followed the people leaving it down the hill to the cemetery gates. There are two cemeteries, the western and the eastern. The later is newer by 20 years and looks much newer than that through the gates. Both charge admission to help in the upkeep of the cemetery. The east you can tour on your own, the west you must have a guide. I chose the west, and it was spectacular. Just imagine everything victorian dripping with moss, crowded by ferns and queen anne’s lace. I look forward to those pictures myself. The tour was, unexpectedly, led by an author from Chicago who was also visiting. I didn’t manage to remember her name, but her second book is to include Highgate, and her research there has turned her into a volunteer guide when she’s in town. She was very knowledgeable of the area. Maybe I’ll find out who she was one day - depending on the genre it might be of interest.

Leaving, I got far better directions back to the tube station. It meant cutting through a park across the street from the cemetery and probably a block and a half up from the Tube… uhm… nice… Oh well, I saw more of London anyway! A very hilly part I might add…

After hitting the train, I made the VERY long trek down to London Bridge Tube. I never had to change trains and napped part of the way. It covered a good distance in way less time than MARTA ever will. I was going to try to get in to see the Tempest. The schedule I printed from their website claimed that in addition to two matinee performances there was both a 6:30 and an 8:30 production today… I hoped maybe to make the 6:30pm, but figured I’d have to buy for the 8:30pm and come back later.

I got slightly lost getting off at London Bridge Station - which is one of THEIR recommended stations, why I don’t know. St. Paul’s would be a far better recommendation (much more direct path), but I wasn’t on that Tube line anyway, so for me it was a moot point. I showed up about 15 minutes before the 6:30pm performance. Found out that there was not an 8:30pm after all… hmmm?? They have a line outside for any leftover tickets that aren’t picked up and I was directed out there. There were a few people in front of me. Things were very informal. None of the tickets were from inside. There were people showing up to sell their tickets - none at a premium, i.e. not scalpers, they were selling at face value. I got a standing, i.e. “yard” ticket! I got to see the Tempest. Which now I’m going to have to read to entirely understand. I never liked reading plays, but this one was done with a small cast, so three actors played SEVERAL parts each. I followed most of it, but it took a good deal of the play to catch on.

Had an awesome time and me and my very tired feet wandered up to St. Paul’s to catch the tube up here (Leiscester Square area) for dinner and a little net time. I was not the only one tired after standing after 2 hours. All the “yardlings” were the first out, aside from being on the front lines of the performance, the only benefit is being out first. Every one went straight to the wall overlooking the Thames and sat down - myself included - took a few pics of the Globe and the crowd coming out. Oh, I also got a few pictures during the “curtain call” as we would term it in modern parlance, not that there was a curtain.

Well, two more full days left. Not entirely sure what the rest of the time entails. I am fairly sure that I’m going to take a London Walk’s tour of the British Museum tomorrow. One side of me says “been there, done that” but it wasn’t the most satisfying experience, so maybe better with a guide? We’ll see. The afternoon is possibly either a guided tour of Westminster’s Abbey or another tour I saw (sounds like the first half of the Explorer walk I decided not to do in the rain last Friday). Tomorrow is supposed to be decent (cloudy but dry). Tuesday is now looking like chance of rain. We’ll see - the weather doesn’t seem that predictable to begin with here.

End of day 3…

Wait, I guess I should begin at the end of Day 2, since I left at the beginning of said day… I didn’t do the B’ham Palace and Westminster deal. I had done both before and the weather was decidely not fun. Instead, I went on a tour of the Victoria & Albert Museum. Was definitely the way to go. Still saw a 10th of what was there and couldn’t hope to say a lot about what I did see. Where the British Museum is massive and filled with massive objects, the V&A seemed to be filled with comparative but interesting bric-a-brac. I would still not know where to begin if I visited again.

Ater that, the sun did indeed come out! It was astonishing! I went on something of a ramble around London, eventually ending up near Tower Bridge and the Tower. Also took a Charles Dickens’ walk. Incredibly informative. Makes me feel guilty about never having entirely read any of his stuff. I’ve always enjoyed movies derived from his work - that makes me sound incredibly unintellectual. I shall have to resolve to remedy this at some point.

That evening I went to Photo London - an exhibition that very surprisingly coincided with my visit to the city. Wow! It was an incredibly cross-section of photographic art. Some I liked, some I didn’t, but that’s the way it is with art. My feet were wearing out or I’d have stayed longer.

Today, I got up first thing and headed to Victoria Train Station. I went on an “Explorer Day” tour with London Walks. A half-way nice day. Sunny with clouds passing by some of the day and stiff cool breezes. The guide was surprised, the tour STARTED with 63 people (I say started because we literally lost some along the way - oops). I was amazed at how he kept it all together (even without the poor misguided souls we lost). We went first to Leeds Castle. Beautiful grounds and very picturesque, but when you get inside, it’s very 1930’s and not even Hollywood 1930’s, sort of shabby by today’s standards. Interestingly, the last owner was an American heiress who married a British Lord.

Afterwards, back on the train and down to Canterbury. Marvelous city - could have easily spent days there. Reminded me somewhat of the smaller old cities I saw in Scotland. Touristy edge, but still obvious that people work and live there. Canterbury Cathedral was breathtaking. Only had 45 minutes in the actual Cathedral, the rest of the time spent touring the city. Would like to go back and spend more time one day. Get a better feel for the city and the cathedral.

Slept on the train ride back almost the whole way - desperately needed it. Didn’t stop me, though. Back in the city, I grabbed lunch/dinner and ate outside of St. Paul’s, waiting for a ghost tour at 7:30pm. It was more ghost and ghouls than just ghosts, but lots of fun. Also learned more about the history of the old city versus modern metropolitan London.

Went back for a few night shots of St. Paul’s before my batteries died. I went through two sets today. I may have under-estimated how many I needed. If so, I’ll regret as the exchange rate and purchasing batteries here is not fun. I did well last trip. Oh well!

Am sitting at a net cafe in Piccadilly Circus now. I will probably amble about just a bit more. I feel old just saying it, but I’ll probably soon call it a night. All the walking takes its toll. No plans to be up early tomorrow. I think my plans are for a canal ride from “Little Venice” to Camden Town. Poke around the market for awhile and then head over to Highgate, where there’s a massive Victorian cemetery. Hope to catch the Tempest tomorrow evening at Shakespeare’s Globe. Last chance for the Tempest. If I miss it tomorrow, will see Pericles Monday or Tuesday. Sunday is supposed to be a bright sunny day, so hopefully will make it tomorrow.