Archive for the ‘Napoli’ Category
You are currently browsing the archives for the Napoli category.
7
Jan
2006
National Lampoons European Vacation or Return to Roma
Brandy and I got up this morning. The room still wasn’t what either of us would call hot but far warmer than anything we’d experienced to date in Sorrento. We briefly saw the night clerk last night when we got in. It appears she quit. She told us after settling the bill and telling us about Brandy’s luggage that she was fini. Too little money for sitting around. Same woman who several nights before shrugged at us when we asked about someone checking on the heat. This morning, her keys were on the desk and she was gone.
I was in the bathroom preparing to get ready when Brandy got off the phone with the airport… in Naples… I had this fear when the woman said the night before “the airport called” – first thing that I thought was “which one?” So, yes, instead of Brandy’s luggage being in Rome where we were heading, it was in Naples where we only intended to pass through… Great… Worse? Rome didn’t send the appropriate paperwork and they needed a release from Brandy to open the luggage sent to them in 10 minutes or they couldn’t send it to the B&B… Of course… The other option was for us to travel to Naples Airport on our way – not vaguely a good thing…
We tried the fax machine at the desk, which was hard given everything being in another language but harder still when we discovered it was not plugged in… bella…
I quickly changed from PJ’s and we ran down the street hunting a place with a fax service. Finally found one and faxed the authorization. They told Brandy after they got it, “okay, will be there at 3pm…” erm… we have to checkout and noon and we are heading for Rome… great… Brandy explained and the woman said she’d see what she could do – call back in 3 minutes… We were next to the cafe that serves breakfast for our B&B, so we went in for that. Halfway through, Brandy called and they compromised with getting it to us at 1pm… okay… best case we could get. We were not delayed tons and we didn’t have to deal with more of Napoli than necessary….
Noon we left and went and sat by the gate waiting for the airport guy… tick… tock… at least it was a sunny and comparably warm day.
He showed up 20 minutes early and we were off to the races. Hopped the train to Naples and both collapsed. I kept nodding off on the way but when we got to Napoli… yuck… Much harder train station than Roma Termini. We found a ticket machine and found out that the train we wanted out only had first class seats left… of course.. 20 euro more for a bit more comfortable seats and a biscuit and water… wow… I can see what it costs so much! Still, we were happy to be on our way out of there. The funny thing is we were doling cash into the machine and a pile of change came gushing out (all we had was bills). And Mr. Panhandler was johnny-on-the-spot as if a slot machine had just paid off… We went and watched the board.. but no train numbers and nothing said Roma… okay… So, to the information desk where we’re told track 16… hrm… Arrive there… Milan!?!?! We ask one of the conducters and he confirms the train goes to Roma. I GUESS that it continues to Milan. That or Napoli’s train station is even worse than I think.
Long ride to Rome. Two guys tried to disposess us of our seats claiming that we were in their seats (by the window). I’m convinced they were wrong. I selected the window seats when I was getting the tickets, but they said never mind anyway…
Read and occasionally watched the scenery until Roma Termini arrived outside the window. So, we got checked in at the hostel. Briefly met our room-mate, Mel, who sounds as if she’s from Australia. We are only on first floor this time (one flight up)! Yaayyy!! Much easier with Brandy’s big bag which we’ve rolled up far more than enough stairs at this point.
We meandered about this evening since there wasn’t much time left for Rome. Brandy wanted to do her coins in the Trevi Fountain again. I figured that maybe going to Sorrento counted as this being another visit so did mine as well again. We wandered over to the Pantheon and I showed Brandy some of the stores I found last week. I also paid… gasp… 16 euro for three pairs of athletic white socks because that’s what I need to keep from doing any laundry before I leave.. gasp… the laundry might have almost been a better option… I was in sticker shock, but at least I found plain socks. Everything else we would consider dress socks. I asked in one shop for white socks and the woman suddenly went very cold and replied, “no white socks, bye now!” Okay, I’m American and apparently don’t know how to dress, cut me some slack but I’m wearing freaking hiking boots!
Also saw Spanish steps and hiked back to Trevi looking for somewhere to eat. Found a little cafe that seemed warm at first but after sitting awhile… brrrrr… I don’t think half the places in Italy have the concept of a door aside from when they close at night. Still, had a great lasagna followed by a tort a limone. I love lemon neck in neck with strawberry! And the Italians seem to love lemon as well, especially down in the Sorrento area where there are citrus groves every ten feet.
Well, that’s about that from Roma today. Brandy departs in the morning after breakfast. I figure on running over to Trastavere for a market that’s on Sunday mornings. Then maybe the Capitoline museum. Monday’s a blank slate at the moment but my last day in Rome. Then back to the US.
Always at a bit of a loss when trips wind down. I’m ready to see home, friends, and family again (although its been a nice change of pace to have a great friend along for a change) and to sleep in my own bed with control of my own heat! However, I feel like I’ve only turned a few pages of this place. Especially this time as I’m only just cultivating enough of a vocabulary to have a rudimentary if childish conversation with someone (tho it’s been hard to find people who don’t know some English here). And we connected with people along the way like the little old man who sneaked us into Villa Jovis yesterday. Even our hated night clerk who shrugged at our misfortune several nights ago was telling us yesterday she didn’t like her job. Lots of little moments that along with the sites made the experience more than moving from place to place. I’ll miss it but I’m sure before long the next trip will materialize.
6
Jan
2006
To Capri And Back Again
What a day!
This morning we had to drop off clothes for Brandy to get washed (her back was still MIA this morning). Afterwards, by here for breakfast and a little internet time before heading out. We went by the room to pick up our stuff and as we were walking out I happened to spy a space heater in the closet the maid had opened. She spoke no english but with the little Italian we’ve learned we managed to explain the heat problem and she gave us the space heater. We were at once grateful and a little miffed that it had sat there while we were cold. The owner has been scarce every since we got here. Not much we can do except tell people about the treatment we got. I’m sure it’s a nice place in summer – nothing stupendous but nice. In the winter, at least, say far clear of the Sorrento Relais B&B!
Happy to know we’d have a warm room, we walked down to Marina Piccolo to catch a boat to Capri only to discover that the boat we’d watched leave as we descended the steps and hill from the city above, was the last one to Capri until 2pm… Well… nice… We also found out that there were limited chances to get back today, the last being at 5:25pm. But I’d heard Capri was georgeous and Brandy wanted to see Tiberius Ceasar’s home on Capri – where he apparently ran Rome the last of his life. So, we decided a quick trip over would have to do. Left and wandered around the town for awhile – much to my dismay for that second ascent and descent that I knew was coming. I complained bitterly that I’d spring a euro for the bus back up when we got back from Capri.
Slightly before 2pm, we arrived at the boat and were underway. It was a great afternoon to be on the boat. The deck seats were full so we sat in the front with the sun pouring in on us. I felt such warmth that I had forgotten from the past week in Italy! It was like Spring was finally here!
Getting to the island, I have to say it is beautiful. Green mountains rising out of the sea covered with little homes here and there. I’m sure incredibly expensive to live there, but oh, I could so retire there and never leave. I understand why an Emperor lived there! I also expect that slaves carried him up that hill!
I had read in my guide that there was a Funicolare that takes one up the hill, so we found the ticket office and then the actual Funicolare in the city center. It’s like a train that’s built on an incline and crawls up the mountainside. Great views but the glass did not make for good photos. At the top, we asked how to reach the Villa Jovis, and a local pointed us in the direction and said it’s easily an hour. Looking at my watch, I knew that if that was true there was a chance we’d miss getting there before closing (4pm). The only option is walking the little trails the locals live and shop on.. So, we began to walk… and walk…
…and walk… Along the way, we had concerns we were not on the right trail and asked one guy who told us, “Si, Arceola Naturale” when asked if this was the trail to Villa Jovis. So on we went, finally arriving at this gorgeous site. I had to stop and take pictures. It was a large rock arch with beautiful blue mediteranean water all around. It was just picture book perfect. Getting ready to continue we noticed a little problem… hmmm… dead end… where the heck??
Heading back up, I suddenly understood his answer, the site we’d seen was the NATURAL ARCH… oh… We began to ask people as we ran into them for Villa Jovis. As we went we got better and better instructions and figured out that we’d been on the wrong route for at least 30 minutes… great… lost time… a lot of lost time… now less likely to make it…
Finally back on the right route.. I started to fear just how high we were going to have to climb. I pointed to a far away rocky outcrop and statue and said, gulping for air, “I think that’s where we have to go!” Brandy said “no! just climb!” She’d make an excellent drill sargeant one day… I don’t think I was fully aware for the last few minutes of the ascent. I only remember issuing vague threats about people who count the steps as they go up stairs and about hurling myself (and the hotel room keys) off a cliff if I didn’t make it so as to punish my torture… erm… travel companion…
As the site finally came into view, Brandy had to conceded the far away statue and rocks were our destination… oh… THUD! That would have been the sound of me falling if I had the energy to…
We got to the gates and they were… locked… It closed before we got there… so we resolved to take a few pictures through the gate and head back… We were about to leave when an old local man walked up and asked where we were from and about us. Then he said, “I live here. We go round gate. I do everyday!” He asked where we were staying and how we were getting back then told us we had time to make it to the boat. He lead us to a spot where there was a way in and showed us the site himself. He knew the place as well as a guide would have. From the top he pointed out the sites around us, Sorrento, Massalubrense, Positano, and the Amalfi Coast as well as Vesuvius. He told us he had family in Miami. He was just the nicest person I’ve met on this trip. He showed us back around to the other side and directed us back down the hill.
We still ran desperately down the hill. It’s a little intimidating to imagine not making the last boat and having to make arrangements to stay there with little in the way of belongings with us. We were off the top of the hill, Funicolare and all, by 5pm. We stopped at a couple of souvenir shops before making our boat.
Now, we got back to the room and Brandy found out her bag has been located! It’s at the Rome Airport, so since we are heading back there tomorrow, we’ll try to get sent to the Hostel there instead of here (no point now), but she’s happy to get that back!
We also found out that we pretty much missed the epiphany. We saw a parade this morning and everything has been very festive, but the Epiphany gifts and all that were this morning. The big celebration was last night after we stumbled in from Naples (which explains just a bit of the insanity we saw there).
So, incredibly tired but happy, we had a meal at a little italian restuarant. I think we’re both pretty stuffed and tired. We both have added blisters to our feet today and I think the morning wake up will be very hard!
That’s probably it from Sorrento – next stop Rome!
6
Jan
2006
Pompeii, Napoli, and the Continued Cold
One more full day in Sorrento and one night to go. The room has remained cold. It’s not so cold that one truly wants to go outside and sleep on the grates, but I can not imagine recommending the place we’re staying to anyone in the winter. I guess all the positive reviews I read were summer visitors?
Yesterday saw us head for Pompeii. We had an awesome time there. Managed to join up with a group of travelers from Canada on a hired guide who took us around the site and explained the sites. I think Brandy made a new best friend as he commented that he hadn’t met an American with so much knowledge of the myths. They kept meandering down one mythic tale after another together while the rest of us just enjoyed the surroundings. Pompeii was worth the cold room. Between seeing the standard of living (granted of the well-to-do) and seeing what was preserved so intact from 2,000 years ago…. boggles the mind. Tile floors, mosaics, frescoes – beautiful and survived a volcanic eruption that killed most of the inhabitants… Truly a wonder. And LARGE. We spent about 5 hours and still didn’t cover more than the highlights. I look forward to boring people senseless with all the pictures.
The joke of the tour was quite often what you were looking at was a reproduction, the original having been removed to the Naples Archaelogical Museum. This was a necessity because of the continued looting of the site even today. A visit to the museum had always been on the list of things I wanted to do, but now it seemed a good idea to actually see some of the original stuff. So, more than half-way there, we hopped on the Circumvesuviana and headed for Naples to see the museum. According to my guide book, merely one metro ride and maybe a short walk from the train station.
Arrived in Naples and got to the museum with only a little effort. Both of us had heard bad press about Naples, so we were a bit uneasy about the place. But all started out well enough. Found the museum, and looked at what we could for a bit over an hour. But considering how much was closed, it was probably not worth the 9 euro entrance fee.
Leaving there was when the fun started. Got our return metro tickets and got vaguely turned around heading down the station, ended up on the tracks going in the wrong direction… So, back up and then down, and arrived at a gate that was being closed… All we could really get out of the guy closing it was “treno fini…” oookay… Hrm… So, we go back up and ask a guy at the desk upstairs how to get to the main station, Garibaldi… “Autobus..” great… I asked if he could tell us what number bus? “directly upstairs” was his response… okay… so back out we went and examined the bus stop sign at the top of the stairs. We found two that said they were going to Piazza Garibalidi. The first one that arrived we got on. I immediately worried, were we in the right direction? What if we were going away from instead of towards Garibalidi? The bus signs, unlike Rome, didn’t illustrate the direction of the bus…
So, we rode… and I kept looking at the guide trying to figure out where we were and where we were going before I just gave up. I finally saw a sign at one of the stops that we sat at long enough to realize the bus we were on went in a circle to Garibaldi, so one way or another, we were going to get there.
As it turned out, it was the long way. We were closer to Garibaldi when we started. If we had crossed the street for another bus, we could have gotten there much faster… thanks helpul metro guy…
In the interim, we saw traffic like I hope to never drive in. Cars and scooters constantly weaving in and out around us, cutting us off, narrowly missing each other. Cars parked any old way even out in the street. I noticed a great deal of them had dings from earlier driving incidents. It was a madhouse that I think was akin to our Christmas shopping. We saw lots of people walking and on scooters with children’s gifts – presumably for the Epiphany celebration today. Oh, we also had our resident lunatic screaming bloody murder on the bus. All the people on the bus who could understand him looked uneasy. I probably looked more so wondering what the hell was wrong with him. He finally handed someone a door mat and then was silent… huh??
We FINALLY arrived in Garibaldi. And headed for the train. Got our ticket to Sorrento and headed for the train, which was a madhouse (rush hour commute by the looks of it). I pushed my ticket through, the gate opened and through I went. I turned to see Brandy on the other side of the next plexi-glass gate… with a look of horror on her face… I asked where her ticket was? It went in the machine and didn’t come out… and the gate wouldn’t open… oh good… Seconds later as we both stared through the plastic a railroad guy walked by and I started pointing at the machine saying, “she put a ticket in and it didn’t come out!” He came and retrieved it and let her through… whew…
We narrowly made the train (there were more, so not like the last train again) and back to Sorrento we went for leftover pizza and discussing the days events while watching Italian TV. Well, Brandy Watched a Cinderella movie while I read.
We both agree that we’ve seen enough of Naples.
Today is Capri assuming we can get there. Half the city is shut down today for the Epiphany. We plan to see what sort of celebrations they have for it. I know they have a tradition of La Befana, the good witch, who brings candy for children. That could be interesting.
4
Jan
2006
By The Skin of our teeth
Where to start?
I’ll save some suspense and first describe where I am because this alone is a unique experience. The only night time internet spot in Sorrento as far as we can tell is a club. We laughed last night when we saw it. Little did we know the next night we’d both be sitting here getting in our net time while listening to peak volume hip hop music? Did I mention that I’m sitting under one of the speakers on a laptop on clear plastic chairs while the waitress passes by with neon drink trays? I mean, they literally have neon lights in them… whew… This is new and different.
Okay, well last night Brandy calls from the airport, she’s landed and waiting for her bags. If I’d had to place a bet, I’d have already said they’d lose it. Then she called back 20 minutes later, no bags, filing claim… of course… The next time she calls, she’s heading for the train. In the interim, I had surveyed the train schedule to Naples. When our original plans had been she’d get here in the morning, there was no concern. Trains from Rome to Naples run more than hourly. However, we still have another tran to get from there to Sorrento and those trains stop at midnight… So, I tell Brandy to hurry to the train from the airport to Termini and call me the MOMENT she hears the arrival time for Termini announced. I was going to book the naples ticket as soon as I knew what to plan for.
While I waited, I surveyed the train schedule again and figured out that even though the trains from the airport are every half hour, there’s one tran she needs to be on if we have a real hope of making it… whewww… cutting it close… Brandy calls about five minutes later… from the right train… YESS!! WAY TO GO!!
Run by the ticket and then try to wait for them to assign it a platform… and they don’t… and don’t… Finally run out to the VERY DISTANT track where the airport trains come in and meet Brandy and then we run. Being the only one with real luggage (and that being a heavy backpack), I’m the slow one. We get back to the main part of the station. Still no platform assigned… tick… tick.. tick… They assigned one and we head straight there. Train pulls in and we hop on. We don’t know the exact schedule for the Circumvesuvana train, just that it runs to midnight… We’re cutting it close. There’s the definite possibility of ending up in Naples for the night (and we’ve both heard the area around the train station is pretty sketchy). Add to the mix that I’ve tried to call the B&B in Sorrento but have gotten no one but a fax machine. I e-mailed that morning in hopes that someone would get the message we were in late.
We blabbed on the way in about the adventure we were having at the very least. Got to Naples and bought our tickets… the last train is literally 4 minutes away… eep… We literally got there about a minute before it left. That’s how close we cut it.
Midnight, we arrive in Sorrento to a mostly dark town. Decorated cheerily for Christmas and a far cry from the graffiti encrusted areas we rode through. This is a resort town after all. But at midnight… a taxi… yeh… I’d always planned to walk, but not at midnight… We find the B&B, which is somewhat a misnomer. It’s a condo community that’s gated… and it turns out Louis, the owner doesn’t live there. I managed to get him on the phone on a number listed on the sign and he comes out and is the picture of a nice guy. Lets us in. Gets everything set and leaves.
After he’s gone we realize… no heat… well, it’s running but producing nothing… also no hot water… great…. it’s after 1am now, so we decided to just deal with in the morning… oh… what a miserable night… hopefully one of those stories you laugh about one day (we have a little already). We called Louis this morning and he said he’d send someone out. About 20 minutes later, we pounce on the housekeeper who we guess is the person he sent. Of course, she speaks no english and is clueless about what we want. Brandy came pretty close to the right word for cold and she got it. About an hour later, we had hot water and were told that someone would fix the heat while we’re gone. So, showers and head for Herculaneum to regain part of a lost day. It’s noon at this point.
Herculaneum… wow… step-child to Pompeii in life as in death. Both were destroyed by Vesuvius, but where the average person has heard of Pompeii, a rich persons town (by comparision), Herculaneum was a lesser place and is little known today. The modern day town, Ercolano, isn’t per se somewhere I’d want to be after dark, but the site. Wonderful. The engineering even in this town, the decorated walls that have survived 2000 years (Vesuvius erupted in AD 79). Tile work, fountains, sewers, beautiful homes and stores. It was really amazing and a great precursor, I think, to tomorrow’s goal, Pompeii, an all day trip we’re told.
Got back into Sorrento in early afternoon and dropped off our packs before going to get Brandy some clothes. We’d hoped to find her bag delivered but no dice. The lady at the desk said someone fixed the heat. It’s warmer but still not to the extent either of us would consider warm. But I managed to wheedle an extra blanket at least. I don’t think we’ll end at the Ospidale (Hospital) down the street tonight.
Headed out for a quick shopping trip, found Brandy some clothes and then found a nice pizzeria for dinner. Brandy had something veggie and I had a spicey sausage. We wanted authentic Napoli pizza. From what I read while Naples didn’t invent the pizza, they popularized it. It was good, but man, pizza hut has no GREASE over these people. My pizza was floating in it. We got the left overs tho for a later meal. Oh, and we had desserts. Brandy’s was some sort of chocolate pie. We never identified everything in it, but it tasted somewhat like banana. Better than I would have thought. I had a lemon desert that’s supposed to be a local Sorrento dish. WOW! ! So good!! No leftovers!
So, that’s it from the city that has an ocean front view of a non-extinct volcano. With some of the luck we’ve had, keep good thoughts that old Vesuvius doesn’t decide to erupt agan while we’re in Pompeii tomorrow!!
