Archive for the ‘Scotland’ Category
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26
Jul
2009
Edinburgh Prints
If I was pressed to pick a favorite place to visit, most people could tell you it was London – with all apologies to the rest of the world and some of the fabulous places I’ve visited. But a very close second would be Edinburgh. Despite the cold winters I’ve visited during, there is a warmness in my memory of this welcoming, old city. There is evidence of human activity around Edinburgh stretching back into the Iron and Bronze ages. By the 8th century, Edinburgh was part of the kingdom of Northumbria, an Anglian kingdom. When the city was formed, it surrounded Castle Rock, the stump of an ancient volcano, site of King Edwin’s Fort, which was known as Din Eidyn (Edwin’s Fort). The land leading up the rock gradually came to us through the ages into English as first Edwinesburch and finally Edinburgh. And in time, the territory where Edinburgh lay went from Northumbria, to the Danelaw, and finally the Scots.
This ridge that is the core of Edinburgh today is known as the Royal Mile, a stretch of old town that rises from the Queen’s palace, Holyrood, at the foot, to Edinburgh Castle at the top of the mile. It’s along this mile that the buildings bear out the history of the medieval city that blossomed in Scotland.
Edinburgh on the Phone
While this print doesn’t portray much of the Medieval charm that can be found along the Royal Mile, it is my favorite shot from that storied street. I know, sometimes I feel like a one trick pony, but I really love these classic red phone boxes. And in this case, there was very little color in this photo, being at night, so yes, I had to do my classic spot color red on this one. I really love how this one turned out, the wet paving stones reflecting the street lights and that pop of red from the telephone booth really just makes me think of those damp evenings walking around the old city. This was taken along the Royal Mile just above St. Giles Cathedral, which can just be seen on the skyline in the middle of this shot.
Deceptive Beauty - Holyrood Palace
As long as we’re discussing the Royal Mile, I might as well show both ends of it. At the bottom of the Royal Mile is Holyrood Palace, directly adjacent to the new Scottish Parliament (something of a message there you think?). Holyrood is the official home of the reigning monarch in Scotland. The Queen spends a week here each year, although her actual residence and favored summertime retreat is at Balmoral, where she moves onto from Holyrood. There has been a royal presence at Holyrood since King David I of Scotland built an abbey there in 1126. All that remains of the Abbey today is ruins adjacent to the palace, the current incarnation of which was built in the 17th century. This photo was captured on the evening of a storm, owing to the exceptional sky over the palace!
Edinburgh Dusk - The Castle
Perched at the top of castle rock in a particularly defensible position, is Edinburgh Castle. There has been human activity here since the 9th century. The current castle mostly dates from after the 16th century (although there are some older buildings within the castle walls). This photo was taken as dusk set on my last evening in the capital city of Scotland. The Esplanade, where the famous military tattoo is held each August, stretches out before you and the castle is lit up. This is the scene that hovers over the city each night.
There are more photos of Edinburgh and Scotland in my Britain gallery – I hope you’ll take a look!
24
Jul
2009
Scottish Highlands Prints
Although it was my second trip to Scotland before I saw any of the Highlands, it was an absolute highlight of my second journey there. The Scottish Highlands are full of history and rugged beauty. Home of some of the largest national wilderness areas in Europe, the Highlands are sparsely populated since the Clearances of the 18th and 19th century where the bulk of the population was forcibly moved, either to the coast or the Lowlands, or the United States. The Highland clearances played a large part in the modern Scottish diaspora. There are roughly 5 million people of Scottish descent living in Scotland, compared with an estimate in excess of 20 million in North America alone. Interestingly, 2009 has been marked as the first Scottish Homecoming, celebrating Scotland and encouraging people near and far to come take part in the festivities planned this year. The reason 2009 was selected is it’s the 250th anniversary of the birth of Robert Burns, Scotland’s national poet.
Wallace Monument
One of the most well known figures in Scottish history for those outside Scotland is Sir William Wallace, portrayed by Mel Gibson in the film, Braveheart. Unfortunately, the film is very loosely based on true events, but William Wallace was a national hero who fought bravely for Scotland’s independence – a battle fought over and over in the intervening years and in some ways desired unto today. Hence, the current Scottish parliament established in 1998, giving Scotland a say over some local matters previously decided at Westminster in London. The 19th tower above is in honor of the real William Wallace and stands on Abbey Craig. It’s said that Wallace watched from this location as King Edward’s troops gathered before the Battle of Stirling Bridge in 1297. Stirling is the gateway to the Highlands. Although there are other crossings now, historically Stirling Bridge was the crossing point from the Lowlands to the Highlands, thus a key location for centuries.
Lost Dreams
This image is of a monument built in 1815 to the memory of the Jacobites. In 1745, Bonnie Prince Charlie landed here in Glenfinnan on the edge of Loch Shiel and raised his standard to mark the beginning of what would be the last Jacobite rebellion. Although it came tantalizing close to succeeding, less than 8 months later, the would be King would pass near here again on his flight to escape the English. To me, this dark image captures that feeling of a lost cause which must have been felt by the Scots of that day when their last home for a free country was crushed at Culloden.
Stand Tall Brothers - from Culloden Battlefield
Although this print is far more about the natural beauty of the moors at Culloden today, these trees seem to have a defiant and resolute pose. This windswept place was the site of the last battle for Scotland’s independence, where the Scottish who did not normally fight in open places like this place took their last stand against the English.
Just so this is not entirely a history lesson, and to prove the point that there is some incredible natural beauty in the highlands, I feel obligated to share a few scenes from the Highlands, that although there is history and great stories to be told, I’ll largely let the scenes speak for themselves.
West Highland Way - Glen Coe
Glen Coe is a steep valley that runs from Glencoe, a village at Loch Leven (a sea loch) to Rannoch Moor. It’s apparently also known to some as the weeping valley, at least in part due to all the streams running off those mountains into the valley below. The little trail through the middle resembles a stream but is actually the West Highland Way, a long hike through the Scottish Highlands that around 50,000 people a year walk. I’m not sure I would get very far very fast with incredible vistas like this begging for a photograph every few feet!
Ancient Shores - Loch Ness
It’s hard to imagine venturing into the Highlands without stopping by the infamous Loch Ness! There have been sightings of the “Loch Ness Monster” affectionately called “Nessie” for centuries. The first written report was from an account of an Irish monk, Saint Columba. The account was written down in 565 AD, about a century after the sighting. The modern sightings began in 1933. Alas, no sightings of the rumored prehistoric beast who lives in this ancient body of water, but our dusk encounter with Loch Ness did generate this lovely image of a deep blue sky against the bones of this tree. Certainly anyone who visits cannot forget their time on these storied shores.
There are more photos from Scotland and the Highlands in my Britain Gallery – I hope you’ll take a look!
21
Jul
2009
Isle of Skye Prints
The Isle of Skye was a true highlight from my Haggis tour of the Scottish Highlands. An incredible place of natural beauty, the island is the northernmost of the Inner Hebrides. Archaelogical digs on the island shows that it has a long history, dating back at least to Mesolithic times. The Gaelic name for Skye is An t-Eilean Sgitheanach, the exact meaning of which is unknown. It may mean notched or winged isle. Amongst the earliest written references is the Romans which labeled the isle, Scitis. The island also has Norse history and some of the clans that called Skye home claim Viking heritage, attested to by a winter fire festival at Dunvegan that continues today.
Where Land Meets Skye - Isle of Skye Panorama
With views like this, one understands why Skye has such a long history of human occupation. This is the Quiraing, the most dramatic landscapes on the island. This view is formed from large sections of land faulting and slipping away from each other at different rates. The process continues today and the small road that leads up to this vantage point has to be repaired every year because of the slippage damaging it. The land here really spoke to me. It was amazing and unforgettable. So much so that when I saw a preview for Stardust, the movie adapted from a graphic novel by Neil Gaiman, I knew that parts of that movie were filmed here. Even without this fact, a great story, but the crew who picked this location did well. You can easily imagine a fantasy adventure unfolding on this land.
Go Forth!
Another view of the Quiraing, part of the Trotternish ridge. In this view, you get a real feel for the size of this place. The tiny figures are my Haggis tour group wandering down to the edges for closer looks at the dramatic drops in this place. The area is well traveled with foot paths but if a fog rolls in can become deadly quickly if one is unfamiliar with the land. Still, I’m sure it’s the walk of a lifetime on this beautiful island.
Grass Sea
This dramatic landscape is a view from near the coast of Skye looking towards the Trotternish ridge. This was actually taken before we made our way over to the Quiraing. So, you can see how easy it is that the tops of those hills could be socked in with clouds and fog! We were lucky to have such clear views by the time we got over there later in the afternoon. The vistas on this island are just incredible!
Faery Lands
One last view on Skye, this is a little stream near Sligachan, a tiny village on Skye. This was actually our first stop of the morning. The mountain range in the background would be the Cuillin mountains. You can see a tiny house in the upper left beneath the gloaming sky (that’s the sunrise reflecting off those low clouds). The single house is a reminder of how few people live on Skye today. Before the Highland clearances, the population numbered near 30,000 people. When the land became more important for sheep production that people, the clearances took place and people who had historically called this land home were banished by the lords. This happened in the mid 19th century and the effects are still evident today. The population of Skye today is roughly 9,000 people, and this reflects a recent population increase!
There are actually even more prints from Skye in my Britain Gallery – I hope you’ll check them out!
13
Jul
2009
Mérida – Yucatan Capital Prints
Mérida is the capital city of the Mexican state of the Yucatan. The Spanish founded it in 1542 on the foundations of an older Maya City, T’ho. Because it’s foundations were laid on an older city, Mérida is said to be one of the oldest continually occupied cities in the Americas and its centro historico (Historic district) is among the largest. Mérida has architecture stretching from it’s foundations to today gracing it’s easy to follow numbered streets. Because of the hot temperatures (at least in the summer), the city tends to close down in the afternoon and re-open as the sun goes down. I never did figure out when they close back down again! Even the local car rental place I used one day while I was there closed in the afternoon and re-opened in the evening.
Mérida Cathedral
The Cathedral in Mérida may not be the largest or grandest on the earth, but it is the oldest in the mainland of the Americas. It is also far older than one might think. The Cathedral was built between 1561 and 1598, using readily available stone. The Spanish pulled down the temples the native Maya had built and used it in this cathedral. This photo was taken in the late afternoon as the city was just waking up again. The warm glow is from the sun hanging in the west.
Iglesia de Santa Ana - Mérida
The city of Mérida is a collection of neighborhoods or barrios built around neighborhood churches. This is probably among the older ones and was likely built on the platform of a Maya temple. Originally built in the 1500s, the Iglesia de Santa Ana was built to serve indigenous Maya and mulattoes. The church was reconstructed in the 1700’s and in the 1800’s, the nearby Paseo de Montejo, a wide Parisian style boulevard was built and this barrio became the address to have. The people who lived in the area were eventually pushed into other parts of the city. Today, it’s a beautiful if eclectic church (observe the pyramids on the towers).
Wired
This photo is the epitome of Mexico (in my mind anyway). Gorgeous colors and textures that just call for photos. No matter how much you upkeep things in this partof the world, nature is constantly fighting you. Anywhere else, I would fight heaven and earth to eave out the power lines, but here, they are such a huge part of the landscape it’s hard to imagine a photo without them (despite the fact that they obviously weren’t there when these buildings were new). This photo is from the streets of Mérida, a simply beautiful and friendly city.
Neon Dreams
Mérida is very much a place that’s proud of it’s city. It’s an incredibly clean place where they have managed to preserve so many of the buildings that have been built there over the centuries. I don’t know any of the history of this theater, but it looks very art deco to me and there was a sign that I believed indicated it was owned by the government, but very much still an active part of the community. On my last night in town, I managed to catch this shot of it with the marquee and neon lights accenting the architecture. An enjoyable shot both for the place and for those of us who love these old movie palaces.
More photo prints from Mérida are available in my Mexico Prints.
6
Jul
2009
Williamsburg, Virginia
I visited Williamsburg, Virginia, in 2006, the year before the 400th anniversary of Jamestown. I definitely do want to go back at some point. They were building a huge new museum at Jamestown that was to be opened in time for the anniversary. A lot of people forget, the pilgrims weren’t first. The first permanent English Settlement was at Jamestown, and a lot of colonial and revolutionary history is to be found in that stretch of land from Jamestown to Williamsburg and Yorktown.
Founded in 1607, by the early 1700’s the emphasis had shifted to Williamsburg, which had become the new colonial capital of Virginia. And Jamestown slowly vanished from the map, its exact location actually being lost for many years. Williamsburg eventually became something of a backwater too, but the small town including some colonial buildings survived into the 20th century. In the early 1900’s, a reverend, Dr. W.A.R. Goodwin became became Rector of the local Parish church, parts of which dated into the 18th century. He lead a successful effort to restore and preserve the church. He was transferred to upper New York state where he lived for a number of years before returning to Williamsburg in the 1920’s. Seeing the number of deteriorating colonial buildings and fearing that there would soon be nothing left of them, he began a movement to save the historic core of Williamsburg. He managed to get the interest and financial support of John D Rockefeller, JR. Much of the town was bought up and everything was restored to its colonial appearance. Buildings that were original were restored and other buildings that had been lost were rebuilt in what was believed to be their colonial appearance. Colonial Williamsburg became a large living history museum that attracts visitors by the droves each year.
To the untrained eye, Colonial Williamsburg is a remarkable recreation of Colonial life in America complete with performances of key events in the colonial period by actors, etc.
During my brief visit in 2006, I came away with several photos that are, to me, reflective of the timelessness of the place.
Williamsburg - Picket Fences
I could not find anything specific about this little home other than it’s part of the property of Benjamin Waller, onetime notable of Williamsburg. The actual home is adjacent to this. I’m not sure if this little building was a cottage or a shop or what, but I love the look of it. It is the epitome of Americana to me. This little house with it’s picket fence and little dormers would once have been the American dream, before people decided they wanted to live in McMansions that filled their tiny lots. I hope we may boomerang back to this dream. I’ve been looking at lot at small homes. If I ever buy somewhere permanent again, I’d love a little house like this, the once upon a time American dream.
Williamsburg Courthouse
The courthouse at Williamsburg is actually one of the surviving structures from the Colonial era. Completed in 1771, it was the courthouse for the community for over a century and a half before being restored and becoming part of the living history exhibit at Colonial Williamsburg. The Treaty of Paris ending the Revolutionary War was announced here.
Old Grandeur - Governor's Palace
The Governor’s Palace for the Governor of Virginia during Colonial days was long gone when the current living history museum was established, but this was built on the original site and used the original plans, methods and traditional fired bricks to recreate what to most of us would appear to be a spot on re-creation of the original.
Little Pink Houses
When I first saw this little pink house on Waller Street in Williamsburg, I love how tiny it was and the color of it! So charming! It’s actually one of the original colonial houses in Williamsburg, rather than a reproduction. Apparently the first records of it are when it was purchased in 1778 by Isham Goddin, so it’s now known as the Isham Goddin Shop, even though it was sold by him only a few years later when he left Williamsburg.
There are more photos from Williamsburg which can be found in my Rural America and Americana prints.
