Archive for the ‘Edinburgh’ Category
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26
Jul
2009
Edinburgh Prints
If I was pressed to pick a favorite place to visit, most people could tell you it was London – with all apologies to the rest of the world and some of the fabulous places I’ve visited. But a very close second would be Edinburgh. Despite the cold winters I’ve visited during, there is a warmness in my memory of this welcoming, old city. There is evidence of human activity around Edinburgh stretching back into the Iron and Bronze ages. By the 8th century, Edinburgh was part of the kingdom of Northumbria, an Anglian kingdom. When the city was formed, it surrounded Castle Rock, the stump of an ancient volcano, site of King Edwin’s Fort, which was known as Din Eidyn (Edwin’s Fort). The land leading up the rock gradually came to us through the ages into English as first Edwinesburch and finally Edinburgh. And in time, the territory where Edinburgh lay went from Northumbria, to the Danelaw, and finally the Scots.
This ridge that is the core of Edinburgh today is known as the Royal Mile, a stretch of old town that rises from the Queen’s palace, Holyrood, at the foot, to Edinburgh Castle at the top of the mile. It’s along this mile that the buildings bear out the history of the medieval city that blossomed in Scotland.
Edinburgh on the Phone
While this print doesn’t portray much of the Medieval charm that can be found along the Royal Mile, it is my favorite shot from that storied street. I know, sometimes I feel like a one trick pony, but I really love these classic red phone boxes. And in this case, there was very little color in this photo, being at night, so yes, I had to do my classic spot color red on this one. I really love how this one turned out, the wet paving stones reflecting the street lights and that pop of red from the telephone booth really just makes me think of those damp evenings walking around the old city. This was taken along the Royal Mile just above St. Giles Cathedral, which can just be seen on the skyline in the middle of this shot.
Deceptive Beauty - Holyrood Palace
As long as we’re discussing the Royal Mile, I might as well show both ends of it. At the bottom of the Royal Mile is Holyrood Palace, directly adjacent to the new Scottish Parliament (something of a message there you think?). Holyrood is the official home of the reigning monarch in Scotland. The Queen spends a week here each year, although her actual residence and favored summertime retreat is at Balmoral, where she moves onto from Holyrood. There has been a royal presence at Holyrood since King David I of Scotland built an abbey there in 1126. All that remains of the Abbey today is ruins adjacent to the palace, the current incarnation of which was built in the 17th century. This photo was captured on the evening of a storm, owing to the exceptional sky over the palace!
Edinburgh Dusk - The Castle
Perched at the top of castle rock in a particularly defensible position, is Edinburgh Castle. There has been human activity here since the 9th century. The current castle mostly dates from after the 16th century (although there are some older buildings within the castle walls). This photo was taken as dusk set on my last evening in the capital city of Scotland. The Esplanade, where the famous military tattoo is held each August, stretches out before you and the castle is lit up. This is the scene that hovers over the city each night.
There are more photos of Edinburgh and Scotland in my Britain gallery – I hope you’ll take a look!
9
Jan
2007
Edinburgh Blues
Last day in Edinburgh. Tomorrow morning, I fly out at 9am… per Edinburgh Airport, that means I should be there at 6am… ouch… So, today needs to have an early conclusion so I can be done packing and all that fun stuff. I left with a 32 pound backpack, and I don’t think I’ve added enough to it that I should worry, but keep your fingers crossed none-the-less.
Forgotten Tidbit
And I really should kick myself for this one, but I literally had less that two minutes of time left on here (and the shop was closing) last night, so I was rushed. On the last full day of the backpacker tour, one of our stops was to Loch Ness. Actually, Fort Augustus is on the Caledonian canal and has a view of the Loch as well. But near sunset, we actually stopped at the infamous home of Nessie. If nothing else, I think I got some rocking pictures of the sun setting on the Loch. No Nessie sightings despite Rab’s Nessie chant and dance that he had us do. I look forward to some of the pictures that were taken of that. Had to be a sight. I had never really read up on Nessie, but apparently there’s actually over a thousand years of history of sightings and sightings at other Lochs. Rab left it up to us what we wanted to believe about the Beastie, but he said that he’d been on boats that had sonar sightings of something down there.
Back In Edinburgh Again, And I feel Fine…
Sort of anyway… The night I got back I was fighting off a cold and taking my Airborne. We had several sick people on the bus by the time it was done. And I was right there at the end. Cough, sinus drip… yum… First night in, I slept, and I slept LATE…
My first day back, I decided to get out of town again. I had some intentions to take a train up to St. Andrews, but I started looking at the schedules. It’s a train and a bus. The train alone takes two hours. You can just do a bus, but that’s three hours… I didn’t want to kill that much of a day on a return trip. St. Andrews will have to wait. So I still wanted to see the coast, and I took a train to North Berwick, a little seaside village half an hour from Edinburgh via train. Even in the off-season, quite picturesque. I can imagine that during the summer, it’s really something. Like most places around here, it has history going back thousands of years. It used to be, ironically, a stop over for pilgrams on their way to St. Andrews. Go figure!
I got some beach shots, wiggled my fingers in the North Sea (hope you didn’t think I’d take my shoes off and wade!). And I wandered around town. Had some chips for lunch and sat and watched the waves break. Real sleepy place in winter, but I suspect in summer a different manner. Almost the whole stretch of houses that faced the water had rental signs in them for holiday-seekers and there are multiple golf courses around it.
My guidebook indicated that there was a castle east of town, Tantallon, built in 1358 by the Douglas Family. Book said it was three miles… hmmm.. no signs… I could do that in an hour easily… but not without some idea where I was going. Found a bus stop and the castle was one of the stops – problem solved! Sort of…
The bus was literally waiting there, so I hoped on. The castle wasn’t far off, but civilization died off rapidly and we were shortly in idle farm fields. Once there, I checked out the castle for a couple of hours. I literally climbed up every wall that was allowed and wandered around looking at the ocean views (the castle is built with two sides facing out and the other two were left open because they are sheer cliff drops). Not the most remarkable place I’d visited, but I was literally the only person there, so it was nice not being buffetted about by crowds for a change, hence the two hours.
Finally done, I got my prerequisite fridge magnet and asked the curator when the next bus was… just missed it… Then he looked at his watch again and said maybe not, if I hurried. I had to have missed it. I had a view of the road the whole time I was walking down from the little visitor office and never saw one. I waited by the side of the road for another 20 minutes before deciding I’d rather just walk. It was 3pm. The sun is down at 4:30pm and I wanted to be back in town before that happened. And sure, enough hoofing it along the little paved path on the roadside, I was back into town just as dusk hit. I did a little shopping and hopped the train back here to Edinburgh.
A little TV and then bed… yawwwnnn!!
Last Day Wandering
Last day can only be described as a ramble. I had thought about going down to Leith Docks to the shopping centre there or to see the Queen’s old yacht, Britania. In the end, I just wandered around and did some shopping and took some photos in between the dark clouds (partially sunny today with ocassional showers). I found the local Forbidden Planet, and got some Doctor Who stuff (yes, it was time to let my geek flag fly – oh wait, I did that when I wore my Batman t-shirt on day 4 of the backpacker trip). Also checked out the graveyard at St Cuthbert’s, an 18th century church. This place has a tower left from the days when they had to guard against body snatchers (taken and sold to the local medical school). This is also where I managed to take a spill on some mossy damp steps. Glad to say that it was just my dignity and not my body or camera that was injured in the fall.
Dropped back by the room and dumped the purchases I’d made, including some CD’s for some Brit music that I won’t really get to listen to until I’m home (wahhhh!!). One was a CD for a Scots band, The Fratellis, that was playing as one of the acts at Hogmanay and I had intentions of hearing them, but of course that didn’t pan out The other, The Automatic, I heard a song of theirs on the radio several times while here. Listened to enough of both albums to be sure I’d like them.
After that a ramble up to Edinburgh castle for some dusk photos, and I think I got in some good ones. Very dramatic sky this evening, clouds and the last remnants of the sun before setting. Plus the castle lights were already on. The only thing left on my plate is dinner, no pun intended. After that, packing and early to bed. I’d thought about a museum nearby that has late hours on Tuesdays, but I think it’s better to end today on this note before I wear myself out. I’m sure I’ll be back again someday. And tomorrow will be a long day. Flight to Newark and then to Atlanta… wheee!
8
Jan
2007
Scotland: Time Flies
I’ve one more full day in Scotland to report on and am days behind in updating my blog. What a combo…
Ullapool to Fort Augustus
More beautiful scenery and history. That was true every day of the trip to the point that it becomes hard to really describe it.
Among other places, we stopped in at Clava Cairns, a prehistoric site which is the remains of circular tombs built thousands of years ago. Really an amazing site. It also contains standing stones, though nothing as elaborate as stone henge. But still amazing when you consider the tools that people had to build these with at the time.
Afterwards, we visited Culloden battlefield, the site of the last uprising between the Scots and the English. The Scots under Bonnie Prince Charlie had very nearly won all of Britain in their battle in 1745. By 1746, the tide had turned and the last few Clansmen fought a much larger force in the open and everything fell apart. The highland clearances began after that. The people were removed from their lands and their customs and ways were banned. The culture was very nearly extinguished.
Lunch was in Inverness. Just enough time to explore a small part of downtown before back on the bus. Good old fish and chips shop. Granted I had chicken instead of fish. Sorry but yuck! Inverness was a lot like other Scots cities I’ve visited. An old core surrounded by newer development.
That evening we moved on to Fort Augustus, where we visited a little museum dedicated to preserving the ways of the highlands, the true kilts (not the ones we are used to today) and as much of the way of life as is possible. It was really an interesting experience and well worth it.
Afterward, we retired to Morag’s Lodge, a hostel in Fort Augustus, probably the nicests I’ve stayed in outside of London. There was karoke and movies. At the end of the night, a few of us were watching Scooby Doo and the Loch Ness monster before bed at 2:30am… ouch…
Fort Augustus Back to Edinburgh
Morning came much too fast on the last day. I don’t think anyone on the bus was particularly awake. We got an hour out when someone realized they’d left their camera behind and we had to double back. We made a couple of scenic stops along the way, but I was half asleep and mainly was just getting off the bus and taking pictures and then sleeping. We had lunch in some small pub, where I had a Scottish Venison burger. I also sampled some haggis off another plate and can report that it was okay. I don’t know if I’d want the full meal deal, but it wasn’t all that bad, reminded me somewhat of meat loaf.
Came into Edinburgh and it was, of course, raining. Said farewells to most of the group and trudged down to the my hotel and checked in. Near collapse. I can report that it is at least a nice place which a view! I’m not paying near their regular rates since it’s off season and I booked in advance.
More to come…
1
Jan
2007
Edinburgh: All Wet
Some of you may have seen on the news that Edinburgh’s street party was cancelled last night. All told since I’d been before, this wasn’t crushing news for me. It was still a unique event in my life.
After dinner (chicken sandwich at a place called “Wannaburger” or something like that – probably a chain by the look of it), I went back to the hotel, relaxed a little and added a layer. I was at the nearest gate around 7pm… not even open?? Huh? Followed the crowds to another. This one open but letting no one in, sketchy details. Crowd continued to one of the main gates on Princes Street. Princes Street, for explanation sake, is a wide open huge boulevard. For most of the length of it, there are shops on only one side. The other side opens into the gardens and the view of the Castle and Old Town. I think this explains the incredible winds whipping down that street Had felt nothing like it on the streets in Old Town.
When I say the wind was whipping, I mean people were leaning into it, and it held them up. Metal fences flew over and I saw a group of port-a-potties fly across the street inside the barricades. According to the BBC news this morning, they recorded 70+ mph winds in the heart of the city. At any rate, quite impressive and amazing to see. People were standing all over the streets, playing in the wind and seeking shelter. For maybe a minute, I joined some under a covered bus stop until I noticed that it was moving a bit in the wind… probably nothing, but still…
I moved a bit to a side street where another entrance was. Since it was a narrower street, the winds were diminished. And on this one, the guards had better details. The event was not canceled yet. They were waiting to see if the winds would die down. If so, they’d let everyone in. So, everyone waited. I stood under the eves of the nearest building near the cops. This is where I heard the whole deal was cancelled for the weather.
Trudged back up to the North Bridge and back across to Old Town. Stopping briefly, I snagged some crisps, a coke, and a bag of jelly babies (candy for the unitiated). I headed back to my room. By now, I was thoroughly and truly soaked. In no mood to even try to find somewhere to ring it in. So, I watched a movie and ate until it was time for the equivalent to Dick Clark’s New Years Rocking Eve to come on.
That was actually amusing. Both the ones I found were Scottish broadcast. One was kind of a dinner party setting?? And has apparently been on for around 50 years… The one I chose was broadcast live from the great hall at Edinburgh Castle, literally over the hill from where I was. So, I chose that one. Lots of musical acts, mostly traditional, but some modern pop that I hadn’t heard (because it was pop HERE).
I’ll try to spare you anymore of my living life on the edge here.
The Aftermath
Woke up reasonably early today and managed to get out early, much to my chagrin since nothing was open before noon. So, I meandered up the main drag after breakfast watching them tear down the barricades and all from last light. Mostly a gray day and quite cool when the wind hits, but there werea few rays of sunshien and even a rainbow at one point!
The Rainbow is getting ahead of things chronilogically. When things finally opened, I took a brief run through Debenhams, a department store, to see what they had on sale. I got a hat there two years ago. Even with the sales prices today of the things I looked at, the exchange rate meant I was being robbed blind.
From there to the National Gallery – free admission! This is the way things should be. In the UK, most galleries and museums are FREE. They do charge for limited exhibitions and the like, but the main galleries are free. The Scots should be proud of their gallery. I sat down in one room as my feet are dragging, and in front of me was a Van Gogh, a Degas, and a Monet… wow… That really is just a fraction of the familiar names and I’m sure if I was any real art afficianado, I’d have recognized far more. This is actually day two of art fest as yesterday I saw a Canalleto exhibit at the Queen’s Gallery at Holyrood (that was not free, but it was WARM).
The National Gallery adjoins the Royal Scottish Academy Building, which was hosting their annual exhibition of the water colors of Joseph Mallord William Turner. I discovered his oil paintings at the National Gallery in London. If I like something enough to hold on to the artist’s name, that says something. So, had to take that in. Excellent work. I was amazed by the depth in some of his water colors. Just amazing images and because of the potential damage to displaying them, they are shown just once a year, January. How fortuitous!
Now, I’m just completely dragging. Over two hours walking the galleries, plus time on my feet before and after (one of those brief moments of sunlight and the rainbow where I was out with my camera for a bit).
Next on the olde agenda is finding some grub, and going back to the hotel to pack. I have to get up actually early in the morning, not faux early like this morning. I have to be at the Haggis office a few blocks from where I’m staying by 8am. If I don’t get some rest, no way I’m hoisting that pack up that hill! Then it’s on to six days and five nights meandering through the North of Scotland. Not sure if/when there will be more updates other than definitely when I’m back in Edinburgh (three more nights here before heading back to the states).
Hope everyone’s New Year is off to a great start!
31
Dec
2006
Edinburgh: Multiplicity
As beautiful as yesterday was, today was its antithesis, but I’d read as much about today’s weather.
I had a very late start. I think I stirred this morning around the appropriate time to wake-up, but I thought better of it. I didn’t actually wake up until about 10:30am local time. And by the time my lazy bones really left, it was noon. Suffice to say that lunch was breakfast today. As I’ve had much stones thrown at my boring eating habits, I hate to say where I ate, but there were arches and they were golden. If it’s any consolation, dinner last night was pizza. I passed a Mexican place on the way here… I’m sorely tempted, but Mexican in Scotland? Sure, I had it in Camden Market awhile back in London and lived to tell it… Maybe another day.
There wasn’t much else to tell from yesterday. After my e-mail, I went to the Hub, this gorgeous old church that’s now a restaurant and the, well, Hub, of all the festivals in Edinburgh. I had made my tickets “will call” so that I would have one less thing to keep up with. The line took me around half an hour. After that dinner and much sleep.
Once finally stirring and nourished today, I walked down to Holyrood palace, the Queen’s official home in Scotland. Last time I was somewhat castled out by the time I had time for Holyrood. So, it was still on my to do list. By the time I got down there, the blustery ugly day had cleared up somewhat. Little bits of blue were poking out through the dark clouds. Holyrood, for the eductational requirments today is Holy Cross essentially. The old Scots word for cross is rood. And St. Margaret was supposed to have brought a piece of the true cross here, hence the name Holyrood.
As if to illustrate Scotland’s ability to throw out multiple weather patterns a day, while inside the palace, it began to rain once more, this time with gusting winds that even had the palace’s workers peering out the windows. I’m sure everyone wonders if this could be a replay of Hogmanay a few years ago when the street party had to be canceled because of storms.
By the time I exited the palace to see the ruins of the Abbey it was clearing up for what was probably a spectacular sunset if you were in the right place, the Palace sits at the bottom, literally of the Royal mile, a long slope up to the castle, so my view was somewhat impeded. What I did see was lovely. The Abbey ruins were closed off due to the rain, but I got a good view throug the door and what I saw reminded me a lot of the Abbey ruins at Dunfermline, Scotland, from two years ago, so I guess that will suffice.
The walk back up the Royal Mile was picturesque as the sun had all but set and there was this incredibly dusky sky with the city lights on the old streets. Expecting some decent pictures from that (I hope). A bit more meandering up until now, but nothing of much note. It’s getting towards time to go eek out some dinner and back to the hotel to relax a little before heading down to the street party on Princes Street. I pretty much missed Night Afore last night. I walked through just a bit of it before dinner, but I was just way too tired and my whole body was too sore from the climb up Arthur’s Seat. So, it’s just this and maybe some of tomorrow’s activity’s. Decidely won’t be throwing myself into the River Forth (never have understood wanting to freeze to death to celebrate the New Year). I haven’t had a chance to read what all is on tomorrow. Two years ago it was a marathon and there was a pseudo dog sled event (no snow, wonder how they pull that off?) I think tomorrow is supposed to clear up, so I’m sure I’ll figure out something.
Hope everyone back home has an awesome New Year. I’ll think of you a few hours earlier. And I know I’m wild and crazy and all that, but I’ll probably be in bed by the time you see the New Year roll by!
