Williamsburg, Virginia
I visited Williamsburg, Virginia, in 2006, the year before the 400th anniversary of Jamestown. I definitely do want to go back at some point. They were building a huge new museum at Jamestown that was to be opened in time for the anniversary. A lot of people forget, the pilgrims weren’t first. The first permanent English Settlement was at Jamestown, and a lot of colonial and revolutionary history is to be found in that stretch of land from Jamestown to Williamsburg and Yorktown.
Founded in 1607, by the early 1700’s the emphasis had shifted to Williamsburg, which had become the new colonial capital of Virginia. And Jamestown slowly vanished from the map, its exact location actually being lost for many years. Williamsburg eventually became something of a backwater too, but the small town including some colonial buildings survived into the 20th century. In the early 1900’s, a reverend, Dr. W.A.R. Goodwin became became Rector of the local Parish church, parts of which dated into the 18th century. He lead a successful effort to restore and preserve the church. He was transferred to upper New York state where he lived for a number of years before returning to Williamsburg in the 1920’s. Seeing the number of deteriorating colonial buildings and fearing that there would soon be nothing left of them, he began a movement to save the historic core of Williamsburg. He managed to get the interest and financial support of John D Rockefeller, JR. Much of the town was bought up and everything was restored to its colonial appearance. Buildings that were original were restored and other buildings that had been lost were rebuilt in what was believed to be their colonial appearance. Colonial Williamsburg became a large living history museum that attracts visitors by the droves each year.
To the untrained eye, Colonial Williamsburg is a remarkable recreation of Colonial life in America complete with performances of key events in the colonial period by actors, etc.
During my brief visit in 2006, I came away with several photos that are, to me, reflective of the timelessness of the place.
I could not find anything specific about this little home other than it’s part of the property of Benjamin Waller, onetime notable of Williamsburg. The actual home is adjacent to this. I’m not sure if this little building was a cottage or a shop or what, but I love the look of it. It is the epitome of Americana to me. This little house with it’s picket fence and little dormers would once have been the American dream, before people decided they wanted to live in McMansions that filled their tiny lots. I hope we may boomerang back to this dream. I’ve been looking at lot at small homes. If I ever buy somewhere permanent again, I’d love a little house like this, the once upon a time American dream.
The courthouse at Williamsburg is actually one of the surviving structures from the Colonial era. Completed in 1771, it was the courthouse for the community for over a century and a half before being restored and becoming part of the living history exhibit at Colonial Williamsburg. The Treaty of Paris ending the Revolutionary War was announced here.
The Governor’s Palace for the Governor of Virginia during Colonial days was long gone when the current living history museum was established, but this was built on the original site and used the original plans, methods and traditional fired bricks to recreate what to most of us would appear to be a spot on re-creation of the original.
When I first saw this little pink house on Waller Street in Williamsburg, I love how tiny it was and the color of it! So charming! It’s actually one of the original colonial houses in Williamsburg, rather than a reproduction. Apparently the first records of it are when it was purchased in 1778 by Isham Goddin, so it’s now known as the Isham Goddin Shop, even though it was sold by him only a few years later when he left Williamsburg.
There are more photos from Williamsburg which can be found in my Rural America and Americana prints.
Lighthouse Landscapes
As I continue my run through my photo archives, a couple of lighthouse photos have been added to my available prints. Lighthouses are one of those subjects that most people seem to really enjoy. I’m not sure if it’s the lure of the sea, the adventure of the sea, or the lure of the life of the lighthouse keeper. I’ve often heard that it’s a much harder life than people generally think, but there’s still something a bit magical about it.
Boston Light is on Little Brewster Island in Boston Harbor. This is the site of the first Lighthouse in America, although the current light is from the 1850’s. The 98 foot structure has the distinction of being the only manned light in the US today. This view of the light is from Georges Island.
Pigeon Point light is on the Northern California coast between Santa Cruz and San Francisco. If you ever have the pleasure of driving down the 101 on the Pacific coast, you should stop and check out this beautiful light built in 1871 and still an active aid to navigation (automated). This shot is from a nearby beach and captures the warm glow of the late afternoon sun in August.
Rome Prints
As I’ve continued my trek through the archives (bless the down time), I’ve posted some more prints from Rome. If you want to see them all, check out my Italy Photo Prints.
Some Highlights:
Before I went to Rome, it seemed like I had seen a dozen documentaries on ancient Rome that included information on the Pantheon, the ancient temple to all the Roman gods. This is actually the second Pantheon, built in AD 126. It’s amazing to stand before a building built nearly 2 millennia ago, a building which is still in use today no less! It was given to the Pope in AD 609 and has since then remained a Roman Catholic church, Santa Maria dei Martiri. It’s the fact it was converted into a church for the new religion that enabled it’s survival. Most of the other buildings of antiquity were abandoned and fell into ruin. The interior retains it’s original mammoth concrete dome roof and the niches for the pagan gods (minus the original statues). In addition it has become an honored burial place for noted Italians such as the painter, Raphael.
This print is a view of the Piazza directly in front of the Pantehon (as viewed from the Pantheon portico). Rome is a collection of these piazza’s – outdoor plazas where the Italians and the tourists vacationing there eat, drink, shop, and socialize. This particular piazza is arguably the most central one in the Centro Storico (or historic district). This is where ancient Rome lay and although the buildings today are not 2,000 years old like the Pantheon, they clearly exude that old european feel complete with mediteranean colors. The recent rains also highlight the sampietrini, the traditional basalt cobbles that have been used in Rome since the 16th century. The sampietrini mimic the ancient cobbles of Rome but are smaller than their predecessors.
Finally, a street level view of the center of the Roman Catholic church, the Holy See, Saint Peter’s Basilica. Although often called a cathedral, this is technically incorrect since Cathedrals are the seat of a Bishop, as the church of the Pope, this is a papal basilica. There has been a church on this site since the 4th century AD, but the present day church was built in the 16th and 17th centuries. At the time of this visit, it was between Christmas and the Epiphany, a festive period in Italy. You’ll note in the photo that the piazza is decorated for the season. The moody skies in this photo make this a strong black and white photo.
Sailing Sort of Down The Nile
Let’s see, catching up from my last post…
That evening, we took a little boat trip as a group across the nile to this little restaurant on the edge of the Western Desert. Great fun, but for me, so so food. The novelty of it more than made up for that.
It was an early dinner and we were back across maybe 7pm or so. We also found out that we got to sleep in the next morning, we would leave hotel at 10am! YAAYYY!!! I did my packing, which was a bit of a challenge. Had to figure out what I needed to have easily accessible for two days as everything else was stored in the big bags far under the deck. Per usual, over estimated what I needed. Oh well.
The felucca is a traditional Egyptian sail boat. You really have to see one to understand it (and when I get back and upload photos you will), but the deck is flat and in the case of the tour boats, covered with mattresses covered in one huge sheet. There’s a canopy that can be removed a few feet over head. You can’t really walk across deck, more crawl or hunched over. There’s a little short galley at the front where you can access the underside where everything is stored and a small crew cabin. We each staked out our little piece of deck where we’d spend the next two days.
The first day commenced, and we sailed to the police station to file our request to sail and that was approved. There was a hang up, though, high winds. Too high to sail. So, all the feluccas, probably somewhere between 6 and 10, sailed to this little strip of land and beached waiting.
Evening came, and we could still see the lights of Aswan. A few turned back. They were on a one day trip and they would have to arrange land routes to make their destinations. The rest of us had a nubian party on the beach and went to sleep snug in our feluccas. At night, they put up tarps around the sides and haul out a bunch of blankets. A sleeping bag was still a necessity this time of year. The first night was not so bad. Back a bit sore but warm and happy when morning came.
Day two, we managed to make a late start and get a little ways up river but not very far. We had a planned stop to see a traditional Egyptian village. I think it was called Daraw. I don’t have the words to describe it. We saw the camel market, or rather the camels that were not sold that day in the market, which takes place in the mornings. Camels are brought in from Sudan and used either for labor or for meat. The village itself was more what I would think of as a very small town. The people there do not often see outsiders. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but they were over whelmingly friendly and curious.
Oh, I forgot to mention how we got there. We weren’t able to make it by boat (dang winds), so we beached again and a truck sort of thing came to pick us up. Basically a little pick-up with a top over the back and a row of seats on both sides. Twelve of us more than filled it. Actually, including the captain who came in for supplies and Sam, our guide, we numbered 14 (plus driver). You see these little taxi truck things all over the place. I’m pretty sure I saw some like it in Mexico, but would never have had the chance to ride one otherwise.
We went back to the boat and crossed over to a desolate little strip of land. One other Intrepid tour (slightly different but overlapping route) met us there. After dinner, we had another Nubian party. This one was a surprise even for the guides. J.J. – our host on Elephantine Island, sent singers to meet us there. Mostly drumming and some singing. The neat part was that two in the other tour had either gotten engaged or tied the knot. I was never clear on which it was. So, it turned into a celebration for that.
Slipped off back to our boat when most of the rest did and called it a night. Until around midnight, when the call to nature came… literally… I had high hopes of not using the bathroom tent… oh well… such is life… I’m glad it wasn’t colder! Second night sleeping was better. I put some of my blanket underneath and used it to cushion things. Much better!
Breakfast on the Felucca before a brief sale across to be met by the minibus. Wind kept us from making it as far down as we were supposed to but we made up the distance today by the bus. So, we bid farewell to the Felucca, our home for two nights and the crew. The cook, Mustafa (sp?) was simply incredible. This was the part I skipped in telling the details. This was what made those nights sleeping on a cushion on a deck worth it. Everything was vegetarian (no power to keep things cold on the boat), and it was all wonderful. I worried that I wouldn’t enjoy it, but I did. I think the absolute best were yesterday’s pancakes at breakfast. Covered in jams. Just heaven.
On the way back on the minibus, brief stop at Kom Ombo temple to join a convoy heading to Luxor. Kom Ombo is a temple to the crocodile god (sorry forgot his name) and we just looked from outside the fence – no one was interested in paying to go in. Afterwards an hour in the convoy and then a stop at Edfu temple. This one we actually went into. This is a late temple to Horus, the god of the living king. It was built after Egypt was conquered by Alexander the Great. If I remember correctly, actually after his time, but still following his traditions. It was built in the Greek style, but using the Egyptian gods and themes. You could see the greek influences, no doubt. An amazing place. My only issue with it was the market. On the way out, I got caught behind some tourists who were having a hard time escaping the vendors and thus was trapped as well. I thought it was the worst until later today.
We got into Luxor at 2pm. Checked into the Little Garden Hotel just off Television Street (I kid you not). We had time to shower and clean up. I have never enjoyed a shower so much in my life. Peeled off the dirty clothes and piled everything up and took it down for laundry. Supposed to get it back tomorrow. Better!
We then had lunch… the guide took us to this awesome place nearby… food… western food… glorious pizza…. As much as I enjoyed the food on the boat, this is my first western food in a week, and I missed it so much. I had no idea how much until I smelled pizza going in. I was torn between pizza and the burger and fries but the place was a pizza joint, so I went with that.
After our late lunch, we had a walking tour of Luxor. No planned activities today, just see the city and see what our options are and then do your own thing. Sam left us at the market in Luxor… oy… I have officially reached my limit. I was beset at every door I walked past. Hello, hello, hello… echoes down the street. “come in” “your friend is inside” “no hassle!” Sorry, you hassled me already. I’m trying very very hard not to take it the wrong way, to understand the cultural differences, etc. But I have really had my limit of the hard sale. I can handle that I have to bargain for prices, but I will not be jerked off the street. I just can’t deal with that. I finally reached my limit and left the group and walked back to Television Street and this internet cafe by the hotel to decompress a bit. I’ll tackle shopping in the market tomorrow or in another city.
Tomorrow morning, a group of us are taking a morning hot air balloon ride over Luxor. Really looking forward to that! Then a tour of the valley of the kings and lunch. Afternoon is free. A lot of choices to do, the local musuem, Queen Haptchetsupts (sp?) temple, the night light show at Karnac’s temple, and the Luxor temple. So, choices to make tomorrow! But the morning is planned out!
Hope everyone is having a great new year. I am, if a bit in a daze. If not for my watch, I wouldn’t even know the day of the week. A week from tomorrow I fly home, so I guess the trip is sort of half over.
I’m not sure how many more updates there will be. Sam told us today that Luxor is our last opportunity to visit ATM’s before we get back to Cairo (Friday). I know that two nights are at a Sawwa Camp on the Red Sea and I’d almost bet no internet there. I’ve enjoyed all the comments and e-mails and I look forward to catching up and am glad you all are enjoying this! Take care!










